Gardening: Martyn Cox
Our man has taken the plunge and ripped up his patchy lawn to create a gravel plot for some Mediterranean-style beauties
AFEW days ago I took the first step in a plan to replace my lawn with a gravel garden. On a scorching hot morning, I stepped outside, took a deep breath and went for broke. Four hours later, I’d skimmed off the turf, removed about a ton of soil and filled a 12ft by 12ft area with 40 bags of gravel.
In the grand scheme of things, my actions won’t shake the horticultural world to its core in the way Christopher Lloyd did when he ditched the roses at Great Dixter for exotics. However, it’s still likely that some gardeners will question my sanity as they could not contemplate parting with such an essential feature as grass.
Well, let me explain the rationale behind my decision. First of all, I absolutely love lawns but it was a struggle to keep mine in good shape. It suffered from lack of light over winter and had been relaid four times in six years.
On top of that, I was fed up of repairing holes, yellow patches and areas worn out by my dogs.
A gravel garden seemed like an ideal solution.
They are easy to create, an absolute doddle to maintain and virtually impossible for my canine companions to damage. Yet the biggest attraction was that it would provide more growing space, with gravelled areas suited to Mediterraneanstyle, drought-tolerant planting schemes.
Despite being a late convert to gravel gardens, I’ve actually wanted one since visiting Beth Chatto’s Plants & Gardens over a decade ago. The sprawling plot boasts a two-thirds-of-an acre gravel garden filled with gems that can handle dry conditions.
Although mine’s on a different scale, I still want it to make a big impact.
My intention is to plant a few key perennials in the corners and around the edges, while keeping the central area largely free for a fire pit, sunlounger and freestanding hammock. I hope other plants will self-seed in gaps.
There are no set rules governing the shape and size gravel gardens have to be, or the kind of gardens they are suited to.
They can be geometric or irregular, and work on all scales, from tiny to expansive. As a feature I’ve seen them in country retreats, coastal havens, suburban plots and contemporary city gardens.
Whether you are making one from scratch or replacing an existing feature, start by removing weeds, turf and any other vegetation.
A solid edge is necessary to retain the gravel and allow it to be spread at a consistent depth.
Mine is defined by oak sleepers but you could use kerb stones or timber edging.
Some gardeners cover the ground with landscape fabric prior to laying gravel. This does prevent weeds appearing but will also stop perennial seedlings germinating and needs cutting when you want to plant something. I spread gravel directly on to the soil, which will help to improve drainage as it works its way down.
If possible pick a type of gravel that complements existing landscaping features or that comes from your local area to ensure it ties in to its surroundings.
I’ve used 10mm golden gravel, which echoes the shingle on a nearby beach. Whatever you go for, a 2in to 3in-deep layer is ideal.
Many plants will thrive in gravel gardens. Helianthemum, Phlox douglasii and Euphorbia myrsinites are among the best lowgrowing types, while sea kale, bronze fennel and phlomis will add height. Use Stipa tenuissima grasses to tie schemes together and in autumn, pop in some Tulipa sprengeri bulbs for spring interest. Make sure that the crowns of plants are flush with the surface of the gravel and not with the soil.
Looking after gravel gardens is easy. Water newly planted specimens regularly over summer to prevent rootballs drying out while plants establish. And keep a bag or two of gravel in your shed to top up the level every now and then.