TOAD IN THE HOLE

Zero-waste food for a thrifty family table, meat cooked in batter was the perfect way to make small quantities of expensive ingredients go further (and to use up any meat left over from other meals). In this recipe, which might have been served up at the Shelbys’ childhood home on Watery Lane, the toads are given a twist – wrapped in bacon. Herby, rich gravy to pour over the dish is a must.

Serves 4

● 8 good-quality pork sausages

● 8 rashers of smoked streaky bacon

● 1 large red onion, thickly sliced

● 2tbsp vegetable oil

● 2 rosemary sprigs, leaves picked

● Steamed greens (peas and runner beans would be good), to serve

For the batter

● 175g (6oz) plain flour

● 1tsp salt

● 3 eggs

● 250ml (9fl oz) full-fat milk ● 8 sage leaves, roughly chopped

For the gravy

● 20g (¾oz) butter

● 1 small onion, sliced

● 1tsp light brown soft sugar

● 1tbsp balsamic vinegar

● 1tbsp plain flour

● 300ml (10fl oz) chicken stock

● 3 thyme sprigs, leaves picked

● Salt and ground black pepper

Preheat your oven to 200°C/fan 180°C/gas 6. To make the batter, simply mix all the batter ingredients together in a bowl until smooth, then leave the bowl somewhere warm for the batter to rest.

Wrap each sausage in a rasher of streaky bacon. Place the wrapped sausages into a 20-22cm oven dish with the red onion, sprinkle in the vegetable oil and toss everything together. Bake for about 15-20 minutes, until the bacon starts to crisp.

Pour the batter into the dish, scatter with the rosemary leaves and bake for a further 30-35 minutes (without opening the oven door for at least the first 25 minutes), until the batter is puffed up, crisp and golden.

While the toad in the hole is baking, make the gravy. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over a gentle heat. Add the onion and fry for about 7-10 minutes, until softened. Add the sugar and cook for a further 2-3 minutes, until the onion starts to brown. Pour in the vinegar and cook for 1 minute, then stir in the flour. Pour in the chicken stock, stir and add the thyme leaves.

Simmer the gravy for 15 minutes, until it is thickened and glossy. Season with salt and ground black pepper, to taste. Turn off the heat and set the gravy aside to keep warm until the toad in the hole is ready. Serve together with buttered steamed greens on the side.