Time is of the essence with these long termers
Most wines are made for immediate drinking, otherwise the producers would go out of business and wine drinking would be very much a minority pursuit. But there’s no doubt that ageing really benefits some; you get much more out of even fairly modest Bordeaux reds when they are five or six years old than when they hit the market. Barolos, from the notoriously tannic Nebbiolo grape, will need at least ten and some would argue that even then they lack charm. Vintage port is sweet and strong even when young but they turn into magically moreish when they have had plenty of time.
A few white wines take time to develop their full potential, even non-vintage Champagne which can be put away for ten years to develop lots of characteristics that simply aren’t there when new. The problem with age-worthy whites is that they are so attractive in youth, why would you bother?
For example, one grape that takes its time is Chenin Blanc. Not the basic ones, of course, but I have always meant to keep some Château de Fesles from the Loire for a few years. Trouble is, it’s so good now, I’ve never managed to hang on to a case of the stuff for more than a few months. But it’s definitely one to try for the long, or at least, medium-term haul.
Riesling has the same high acidity as Chenin — essential for ageing and development — and is a sure fire choice for keeping. Even Aldi’s Clare Valley Riesling for a tenner should get better, developing that petrol aroma (apologies to the almost eponymous band) after a few years. But I have the same problem: it’s delicious straight off the shelf. However, it might be the best value white for ageing if that floats your boat.
I drank the last Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett 1952 that I bought for next to nothing at the auction when the old bonded warehouse was cleared to make way for the IFSC in the late 1980s. It was four years ago and it was utterly magnificent. I think I paid about €8 a bottle at the time, when nobody wanted old German wines.
Riesling Kabinetts have that essential high acidity but something else that helps: a little sugar. I find that old Kabinetts and even Spätesless seem to become less sweet over time but that honeyed note is still there are still lovely if you don’t turn up your nose at a bit of sugar in the right place.