Nuremberg a town for all seasons …
Its December markets are a huge draw but this is a city rich in history, art, culture…and sausages, as Novel Traveller Michelle Walsh Jackson discovers
IHOSTED THE TRIAL OF GöRING AND
OTHER NAZI CRIMINALS
was 10 years old when I first saw a print of Albrecht Dürer’s Praying Hands resting on the mantelpiece in my granny’s house. The meticulous study of two hands joined gracefully together intrigued and inspired me. I practised drawing them hundreds of times and it probably had something to do with my passion for art and the fact that I pursued my further education in art college. Many years later I’m in the artist’s house in the old town of Nuremberg and I’m equally as moved by the precision of Dürer’s skillful ability at a time when art was in a Renaissance. It’s easy to imagine Dürer printing his etchings as my other half and I pad through his workshop with all the original equipment in situ. Dürer was one of the first superstars of art, perfecting use of the printing press to disperse his work to the masses and accumulating a vast amount of wealth in the process. His house was remarkably one of the few buildings left standing after the Second World War.
The symbolism of Dürer’s peaceful hands is more than poignant, as I’m in a city with a legacy laced with uncomfortable memories. Being at the heart of the Third Reich, Nuremberg’s citizens saw the destruction of 90% of their city during the war. The old town was rebuilt in the 1950s with great attention to detail close to its original layout and design, making it a charming destination to visit now and authentically medieval.
Nuremberg held an important position in the middle ages as a seat of the Holy Roman Empire – dominated by an impressive medieval castle where emperors stayed while in the city. The city walls are in good condition with 71 towers still intact. We took time to roam the beautiful gardens and vantage points which are free to explore. The weather is balmy in June and perfect for sitting under the gaze of the castle in one of the bars with a glass of the local red beer.
Nuremberg’s location and Nazi history made it the natural choice for hosting the trials of Göring and other criminals after 1945. In court 600, the evidence was thrashed out against the 21 Nazis who were brought to trial for the part they played in the murder and unethical medical experimentation on the Jewish population and other victims of the Holocaust. The accounts of the trial with photographs and film portray the horror in stark realism making it difficult to comprehend how one human can torture another in such a manner. But the exhibition of this dark period in European history is more important than ever to revisit and comprehend so that it must never happen again. Afterwards the Nuremberg Code was written and has its 75th anniversary this year. This important ethical declaration of human rights is a recommended standard to be used by medical persons and there has never been a better time to revisit its relevance. Courtroom 600 remains open to visitors and is an eerie must-see for history buffs.
On a lighter note there are sausages and then there is the famed Nuremberg Sausage. Usually accompanied by sauerkraut or potato, the Nuremberg Sausage is served in generous portion sizes of six, eight, 10 or 12 . The sausage has strict criteria to meet and must be 7-9cm in length and weigh 20-25g. According to legend the size ensured that it was easy to fit through the keyholes of medieval doors after the city gates had been closed at night or after the inns had closed to placate drunken revellers. It’s probably more likely that due to the high quality and cost of producing the sausage, butchers could charge more by making them smaller. For lunch we discovered one of the most famous traditional restaurants, The Gulden Stern, which offers the sausages with lashings of delicious local brew and is good value at €15 per person.
Not to be outdone, modern Frankconian Cuisine is in a renaissance in Nuremberg. Fraenk’ness is probably one the best restaurants I’ve visited in Germany, with a unique twist on modern cooking. My tastebuds danced dining on my duck main course as each mouthful offered more delicious flavours that I found impossible to identify. As for my other half, he’s been raving about the prawn soup to anyone willing to listen since our return. See fraenkness.de/
The Market Square is a bustling centre for local farmers to sell their produce during the week. In the northwest corner stands the Beautiful Fountain which offers the opportunity to have a wish granted. Standing 19m high this metal monument is more than 500 years old and, due to careful protection survived, two world wars. We were told to find the golden ring in the iron railings and turn it three times while making our wish. It takes some navigation but the memorial is a unique and quirky attraction. We arrived at the square just before midday and in time to witness a charming procession of figures
SAUSAGES HAD TO FIT THROUGH MEDIEVAL KEYHOLES
emerge from the medieval clock tower of Frauenkirche. In the background a glockenspiel provided music as those of us below watched up in wonder at this feat of medieval engineering.
The German National Museum hosts an array of precision instruments from the early middle ages and fine samples of art. The artists Cranach and Rembrandt adorn the walls. One of the most fascinating artifacts is an early globe made in 1492 and painted without showing the Americas, as Columbus had yet to make his discovery. This large museum houses costumes, hunting equipment and even dolls houses which were used to train the young ladies in keeping house.
Toys are an important draw to Nuremberg as it is home to many brands including Playmobil. A 30minute train ride from the centre of the city is the Playmobil Fun Park and a must if travelling in the region with little ones. Tickets must be bought online. See playmobil-funpark.de/en/
The Toy Museum in the old town displays vintage toys making a fascinating visit for all ages. See museums.nuernberg.de/toymuseum
As we wander over the many bridges that weave across the River Pegnitz the old town enjoys an easier pace of life than other German cities. Many delightful bars and shops draw our attention along the way but we must stop when we come to the Gingerbread Shop which offers Nuremberg Lebkuchen – another local delicacy. The Gingerbread is as famous as the sausage and makes a delicious treat infused with cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger and all the traditional smells of Christmas. Indeed Nuremberg comes alive for the month of December and boasts the original and best Christmas market in Germany. The legend of the Christkind is alive and well, as biannually a pretty girl is chosen from the city to be the symbol of The Holy Christ who brings children their gifts on December 24. This tradition was put in place in the 16th Century by Martin Luther who chose the symbol of the Christkind to replace the Catholic saint, St Nicholas.
A lovely way to end our weekend is hearing about the peaceful message of love and hope that is told every Christmas in the market square. It sums up what we witnessed during our stay in this town with many stories to be told and remembered, justified and healed.
The memories of our visit will remain etched in my mind and endure like the lasting image of Dürer’s Praying Hands. The Gingerbread, however, didn’t last so long and was devoured before landing back in Dublin after our short two-hour flight.