ROAST WITH THE MOST
We all love a good carvery, so our hungry reporter visited two f ine establishments both renowned for their pub grub
WHAT is your idea of a great lunch? Maybe it’s sushi, or even a meal-deal sandwich. But for many Irish people, it’s a carvery.
Earlier this week I joined the mystery judge of Ireland’s Favourite Roast at two Dublin pubs for the difficult task of sampling their pub grub.
After more than a decade of judging the competition, the mystery judge is an expert on roasts and has tasted some of the best the country has to offer.
This year’s competition, sponsored by Knorr gravy, saw more than 150 entries whittled down to a shortlist of 15, with five eateries in three provinces nominated. Three provincial winners will be picked and then judged by a top-secret celebrity judge before the overall winner of the all-Ireland roast competition is declared.
The mystery judge had visited last year’s winner, the Silken Thomas Pub in Kildare, the day before we met.
They had a busy week of mystery dining ahead of them but allowed me to join in the early stages of the competition.
There’s a lot up for grabs for the winning restaurant. Not only will they win €3,000 of kitchen equipment but the creators of Ireland’s Favourite Roast will design a national radio campaign for them. The mystery judge tells me that
‘Plate should be given with the meat in front’
it’s a winning combination of experience and food that will make the winner Ireland’s favourite.
The service should be friendly and competent, the interior clean and easy to navigate and, above all, a diner should have a lovely meal.
We were looking for a generous portion of a good cut of well-cooked meat, vegetables that haven’t been overcooked and have a good flavour and texture, and of course, smooth mash and crispy roasties.
Stuffing and gravy should complete the plate, and presentation counts. The plate should be given to you with the meat in front of you, the mystery judge says. The devil is in the detail – and the mystery judge doesn’t miss a trick.
The first pub we visited, Eden House in Rathfarnham, is no stranger to awards, winning best pub in 2008.
Comfortable seating and private nooks make the pub a good date-night venue but there are large tables suitable for big groups too.
We were welcomed at the door and shown to our seats quickly. The service was polite but brisk and we were served within five minutes of arriving. The plastic trays that carried our food jarred with the interior design but were whisked away when we sat down to eat.
The gravy was a bit bland and the vegetables mushy but the meat was beautifully cooked, soft and the roast potatoes were both crispy and fluffy.
The Bell in Blanchardstown, the
second pub of the day, had a very different design.
More traditional in style, with an off-licence and a bookies attached, it was large and airy, even if the fittings were a little dated. It was busy and the staff were incredibly friendly. We listened in on an impromptu performance by one barman of a popular song. Regulars were looked after well – the staff are clearly willing to go above and beyond.
Little touches go a long way. For instance, free orange squash and ice next to the water station added something extra to the experience.
The portion size, which was more generous than at Eden House, challenged even my hungry stomach. The mashed potato was wonderful, the gravy thick and salty, but the vegetables were watery and the stuffing didn’t add much to the plate. The beef was plentiful and tender, but not quite as melt-in-the-mouth as Eden House’s.
At €12.95, a whole €3 cheaper than Eden House, The Bell is certainly value for money. If it is a friendly atmosphere you want – with serviceable food – then it is an excellent choice for a lunchtime spot. But it is not up to me whether either of the Dublin pubs will make the final cut.
The provincial winners will be announced at the end of September and the all-Ireland carvery will be crowned soon after.