How to avoid the orange look

The paler you are, the more dif­fi­cult bronz­ing prod­ucts are to nav­i­gate

The Irish Times Magazine - - BEAUTY - LAURA KENNEDY

Bronzer is tricky busi­ness. Most Ir­ish women will have a cou­ple of trau­matic ex­pe­ri­ences re­lated to bronz­ing stored in their men­tal bank. These ex­pe­ri­ences will usu­ally in­volve a de­part­ment store make- up artist or fe­male rel­a­tive launch­ing them­selves at you with a grimy orange brush and mut­ter­ing some­thing about “warm­ing you up”, like a Tup­per­ware box full of yes­ter­day’s lunch. The end re­sult usu­ally be­ing that your skin and face has been trans­formed into sev­eral shades of orange. Among all of the di­verse and lovely skin tones that hu­man be­ings come in, orange is def­i­nitely not one them. There is no one orange un­der the sun.

I be­lieve heartily in in­vest­ing in a good bronz­ing prod­uct and do­ing it right, that is if you want to do it at all – we are bet­ter now at em­brac­ing pale skin than ever, and there is much to be said for do­ing so.

The paler you are, the more dif­fi­cult bronz­ing prod­ucts are to nav­i­gate. Most will look mucky and smeared on, like a dog busi­ness freshly skid­ded into. Tex­ture is key – creams should never be ap­plied over pow­der prod­ucts.

The best place to start is un­der­neath your make- up, with a liq­uid, cream or gel prod­uct which is easy to ap­ply and can be man­aged more eas­ily than a pow­der ap­plied over the top of a full face of slightly damp make- up. 1 Char­lotte Til­bury Uni­sex Healthy Glow (¤ 40 from Brown Thomas) is the most bril­liant ‘ warm­ing up’ prod­uct I have tried, and works won­ders on men and women. Ap­ply it spar­ingly un­der­neath your make- up, and then pro­ceed as nor­mal. It looks like skin turned very subtly golden in the sun.

2 Chanel Soleil Tan de Chanel Bronz­ing Make- up Base (¤ 40 from Arnotts) does sim­i­larly ster­ling work, but is best ap­plied af­ter foun­da­tion an un­der blush. It isn’t a con­tour prod­uct – you don’t wear it to struc­ture the face, but a lit­tle bit buffed where the sun nat­u­rally hits the face cre­ates a supremely healthy, shine- free glow. You can ap­ply it un­der­neath foun­da­tion for an even more nat­u­ral fin­ish.

Some­times the best bronz­ing prod­uct is not a bronz­ing prod­uct. 3 Ar­mani Fluid Sheer (¤ 46 from Brown Thomas) comes in many shades and is a mir­a­cle worker. If you are paler, look for a bronze shade with a red­dish un­der­tone – this won’t make the skin look red, but will mimic the soft rus­set tone that pale skin nat­u­rally turns in the sun. It should be ap­plied in thin, sheer lay­ers and looks ab­so­lutely sen­sa­tional when done cor­rectly. It also makes a beau­ti­ful blush.

If you pre­fer a bronz­ing pow­der, opt for some­thing that isn’t sparkly and does not veer orange ( even a lit­tle). 4 Bobbi Brown Bronz­ing Pow­der (¤ 37 from Deben­hams) is a clas­sic safe bet and comes in cooler un­der­tones for a nat­u­ral look on paler skins. Ap­ply it in thin lay­ers and build up – it is far eas­ier to ap­ply more of a pow­der prod­uct than to re­move it. 5 May­belline Mas­ter Bronze Colour and High­light­ing Kit (¤ 17.55 from asos. co. uk) is lovely for cus­tom- blend­ing your own shade of bronzer, and works es­pe­cially well for deeper skins.

We are bet­ter now at em­brac­ing pale skin than ever, and there is much to be said for do­ing so. The paler you are, the more dif­fi­cult bronz­ing prod­ucts are to nav­i­gate

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