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Springing back: Ein Ashkaf
With coronavirus regulations lifted to the point that Israelis can once again take day-trips (at least for the moment), now’s the time to count another blessing and remember we were the lucky recipients of copious rainfall last winter.
Our country’s natural springs are full of blessed water, and this is great news for anyone who loves hiking to any of the multiple springs spread throughout the Judean Hills. Some, like the Sataf, are very well-known, whereas others are practically hidden and few people know how to reach them. Today, I will describe how to reach two of the lesser-known springs: The first is called Ein Ashkaf, situated at the entrance of Moshav Even Sapir, and the second is Ein Khod, located near Ness Harim, a delightful place to play and wade in the water, especially for kids.
EIN ASHKAF
If you look at a hiking map in Jerusalem, you will see a huge number of springs. The thing is, only some of them are easily accessible. Of course, finding hidden spots that are off the beaten trail and that few people know about is practically a national obsession among Israelis. Although Ein Ashkaf can be reached by foot, it is definitely one of the lesser-known spots in the Even Sapir area, and I couldn’t even find it on any of my maps. You just have to know where you’re going and then, voila!, there it is smack in the middle of gorgeous green surroundings, with water flowing down gracefully into two shallow pools.
The spring’s name is a Hebraization of the Arabic name, A-Shakaf, which means stone shelf. A number of agricultural discoveries were found near the spring, such as remains of terrace farming, irrigation canals and a dam. Early summertime is a great time to visit springs in Israel, since it’s hot enough outside to enjoy getting wet and the springs are still full of water from the recent winter rains. The 1-kilometer path to Ein Ashkaf is a very easy walk and takes about an hour. Entrance is free of charge and the site is a great place for families and groups.
Directions: Drive along Road 396 until you reach
Moshav Even Sapir. Enter the moshav and drive about 500 meters, until you see a dirt path on your left. Park your car there and walk another 400 meters until the path splits. Take the path on the right, which will take you in a north-westerly direction. After another 600 meters, the path will turn and lead you down through trees towards Ein Ashkaf.
EIN KHOD
Ein Khod is a spring located at the foot of a hill where artifacts from an Arab village called Beit Itab have been found. As the spring has flowing water all year round, it serves as the water source for all the communities in the area. A small stone structure was built around one of the pools, which is about 40 cm. deep, and another meter-deep pool is located in the open air. This is a lovely spot, with lots of fig, date, almond and olive trees all around, which provide plenty of shade for a nice picnic, even on hot days.
If you’d like to visit and inspect ancient remains of walls, towers, vaults and arches, you can continue along the dirt path to Hurvat Beit Itab. Not only are there interesting artifacts to see here, you can also climb up to the observation deck, from which you’ll be treated to a panoramic vista over the Judean Hills. On a clear day, you might even be able to see the chimney stacks of the Rutenberg Power Station. If you have a four-wheel drive, you can drive all the way to the spring. Otherwise, it’s best to park west of Moshav Bar Giora and take the one-kilometer-long path to the spring, which takes about 25-30 minutes to traverse.
Directions: Drive along Road 386. Turn right at the Ness Harim Intersection and then after 600 meters, turn left at the red trail marker and drive alongside the Moshav Bar Giora cemetery. Turn right and drive until you reach the gate. Park your car there.
DERECH HAGEFEN
The experience of dining at Derech HaGefen in Beit Zayit begins on the drive there, which passes by green fields and vineyards. From our table inside the restaurant, we had a lovely view of the pastoral mountains. The décor was a nice blend of vintage and modern, with the sound of birds chirping and naturally flowing water in the background (we saw small fish swimming in the stream). The Mediterranean kosher cuisine also included a touch of Italian, including handmade pastas, whole wheat focaccia and beet gnocchi with goat cheese, as well as a nice selection of fresh fish. Location: 1 HaGefen Street, Beit Zayit. Hours: Sunday through Thursday 8 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Friday 8 a.m. until three hours before Shabbat; Saturday night from one hour after Shabbat until 11 p.m. Contact: (02) 650-2044.
BAR BAHAR
The best part about dining at Bar BaHar is the gorgeous view guests can enjoy while dining in the restaurant that is located on a hillside covered with pine and oak trees. (Note: Ask to be seated at the table on the balcony overlooking the Nahal Sorek Nature Reserve). This vegetarian/vegan restaurant offers a nice breakfast menu, as well as a wide variety of salads, quiches, soups, pizza and pastas.
Location: Ness Harim Intersection, Bar BaHar, Nahal Katlav parking.
Hours: Sunday through Shabbat 8 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Contact: (02) 533-3889.
MATZOK
After you’ve finished walking along the trails, it’s time to have some fun on wheels. Judea is a mountainous area that is also full of fields, vineyards and valleys. It is home to some of the most breathtaking views in the country. This unique combination makes the area ideal for jeep and bike rides. I recommend Matzok, which specializes in guided bicycle, ATV and off-road vehicle tours. If you’re looking for an adrenaline boost while touring the nature around Jerusalem, this is the place to go. Alternatively, if you’d rather do a quiet, leisurely tour on your own, you can rent mountain bicycles from Matzok and enjoy the beautiful natural surroundings at your own speed.
Location: 1 Moshav Aminadav. Contact: 052-386-5612, (02) 643-1342
SEAHORSE WINERY
Ze’ev Dunie, a former movie producer and screenwriter, never thought he’d find himself making a midlife career change. But after producing a documentary about the world of food, with a section on fermentation, he was smitten with the magical world of wine and carefully tended vineyards. He left the world of film and put all of his efforts into creating Seahorse Winery in Moshav Bar Giora, which now produces a number of uniquely delicious wines made from grapes grown in crazy vineyards under eccentric conditions. Every interaction with Dunie invites fascinating conversation and it’s quite an experience to visit his wine cellar, where the walls are plastered with posters of movies and iconic actors.
Location: Moshav Bar Giora.
Hours: Shabbat, by appointment only.
Price: Wine tastings are NIS 50 per person, which is deducted from the cost when you buy three bottles of wine. Contact: 054-484-3495.