Lens Magazine

At the Kalashi’s Winter Solstice Festival

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TheChawmos, a 14-day Winter Solstice Festival, is the most important event in the year of the Kalashi, an animist minority in northern Pakistan. The Festival is a portrait in contrasts: solemn ritual and joyous dancing, gender segregatio­n and public flirtation, togetherne­ss, and isolation. Purity and purificati­on are the big themes of this festival.

TheKalash are a group of about 4,000 people, the country’s smallest minority group, who live in the mountains of the Hindu Kush, where they practice an ancient polytheist­ic faith. Their religion is often compared to an ancient form of Hinduism, but the origins of the Kalash are a mystery.

Their faith incorporat­es animistic traditions of worshiping nature and a pantheon of gods, whose members, in some instances, bear resemblanc­es to the Vedic gods of ancient India.

The main god of the Kalash is Balumain, the lord of heaven to whom the festival is dedicated. The Kalash believe places and people are most likely to be visited by Balumain only after being cleaned, pure, and sanctified.

Each year, they come together for Chawmos, a New Year festival that coincides with the winter solstice marked by animal sacrifice, dance, and prescribed roles for men and women.

Holger Hoffmann has experience­d this festival up close and has undergone the necessary cleansing rituals, getting to know the lively and very friendly people.

Holger Hoffmann has traveled together with his wife Sylvia Furrer on more than 75 trips since 1977 and has visited 60 countries outside Europe. In 1995 they founded chaostours. ch. Sylvia is the director,

Holger the guide, and they are so far the only customers, but very satisfied with the selforgani­zing way of traveling. That keeps them open-minded to the unexpected.

The longer they travel together, the more they become fascinated by the customs and the daily life of indigenous people who preserve their traditiona­l culture. They developed a profound respect for these people who subsist in remote areas under harsh living conditions such as in the extreme cold of Siberia, the hot desert of the Danakil, the wet jungle in West Papua, or the high mountains in the Himalayas. Nomadic people have become a major focus of their recent travels. They are deeply impressed by how they handle the threats of climate change and adapt to the advances and pressures of the modern world.

In 2012 they started to publish some travel reports to share their impression­s with a broader community of travelers. Usually, Sylvia is the writer and Holger the photograph­er.

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 ?? ?? Men making walnut bread for the purificati­on ritual.
Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
Men making walnut bread for the purificati­on ritual. Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
 ?? ?? The festival starts with women and children waving juniper twigs above their heads as they process to the temple.
Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
The festival starts with women and children waving juniper twigs above their heads as they process to the temple. Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
 ?? ?? At the women's purificati­on ritual, their heads are circled with burning juniper branches.
Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
At the women's purificati­on ritual, their heads are circled with burning juniper branches. Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
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 ?? ?? During the festival, whenever there is a possibilit­y, people dance – day and night.
Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
During the festival, whenever there is a possibilit­y, people dance – day and night. Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
 ?? ?? During the festival, whenever there is a possibilit­y, people dance – day and night.
Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
During the festival, whenever there is a possibilit­y, people dance – day and night. Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
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 ?? ?? Beans cooking in huge iron pots to be used for internal cleaning.
Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
Beans cooking in huge iron pots to be used for internal cleaning. Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
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 ?? ?? The temple high above the village in the first sunlight.
Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
Left Page Top: At the beginning of the festival, the house and clothes are cleaned.
Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
Left Page Bottom: After having sacrificed goats, the men's purificati­on ritual ends with the blessing of the bread.
Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
Top: The Kalash village, Pakistan, with a stunning mountain backdrop. Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
The temple high above the village in the first sunlight. Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved. Left Page Top: At the beginning of the festival, the house and clothes are cleaned. Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved. Left Page Bottom: After having sacrificed goats, the men's purificati­on ritual ends with the blessing of the bread. Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved. Top: The Kalash village, Pakistan, with a stunning mountain backdrop. Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
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 ?? ?? The torchbeare­rs set out for the procession with their 2 to 5 meter long torches.
Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
The torchbeare­rs set out for the procession with their 2 to 5 meter long torches. Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
 ?? ?? The initiation of the 7 to 10-year- old boys, who are seen as the purest creatures in the Kalash culture. Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
The initiation of the 7 to 10-year- old boys, who are seen as the purest creatures in the Kalash culture. Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
 ?? ?? From all three valleys, the Kalashi people get together to celebrate the last day of the festival. Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
From all three valleys, the Kalashi people get together to celebrate the last day of the festival. Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
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 ?? ?? From all three valleys, the Kalashi people get together to celebrate the last day of the festival.
Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
From all three valleys, the Kalashi people get together to celebrate the last day of the festival. Holger Hoffmann © All rights reserved.
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