Mar­gie­la l’in­no­va­to­re the In­no­va­tor

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Pa­ri­gi fe­steg­gia il de­si­gner bel­ga con due even­ti: una re­tro­spet­ti­va al Pa­lais Gal­lie­ra e una mostra-dos­sier al Mu­sée des Arts Dé­co­ra­tifs Pa­ris ce­le­bra­tes the Bel­gian de­si­gner wi­th two even­ts: a re­tro­spec­ti­ve at Pa­lais Gal­lie­ra and an ex­hi­bi­tion at the Mu­sée des Arts Dé­co­ra­tifs

Di­plo­ma­to all’Aca­dé­mie Roya­le des Beaux-Arts di An­ver­sa, as­si­sten­te di Jean Paul Gaul­tier tra il 1984 e il 1987, mai fo­to­gra­fa­to né in­ter­vi­sta­to, lo sti­li­sta Mar­tin Mar­gie­la (1957) ha dedicato al suo mar­chio sfug­gen­ti eti­chet­te che ri­por­ta­no in cam­po bian­co so­lo un nu­me­ro di serie, per ri­sa­li­re al­la li­nea. Il bian­co è il suo “non co­lo­re” do­mi­nan­te, de­cli­na­to in tut­te le nuan­ce. An­che i ma­te­ria­li non so­no sem­pre pro­pri del­la mo­da e so­no usa­ti in mo­do ina­spet­ta­to, per com­por­re as­sem­bla­ge che am­mic­ca­no all’ar­te con­tem­po­ra­nea più che al mon­do de­gli abi­ti. Dal 3 mar­zo al 15 lu­glio il Pa­lais Gal­lie­ra, mu­seo del­la mo­da pa­ri­gi­no, gli de­di­ca una ve­ra e pro­pria re­tro­spet­ti­va con un cen­ti­na­io di mo­del­li. La mostra ri­per­cor­re un viag­gio lun­go vent’an­ni, dal­la pri­ma­ve­ra-esta­te 1989 al­la pri­ma­ve­ra-esta­te 2009. Men­tre dal 22 mar­zo al 2 set­tem­bre il Mu­sée des Arts Dé­co­ra­tifs fa un af­fon­do sul­la sua col­la­bo­ra­zio­ne con la mai­son Her­mès dal 1997 al 2003. (Cri­stia­na Cam­pa­ni­ni)

Gra­dua­ted from the Aca­dé­mie Roya­le des Beaux-Arts in Ant­werp, as­si­stant to Jean Paul Gaul­tier bet­ween 1984 and 1987, ra­re­ly pho­to­gra­phed and ne­ver in­ter­viewed, the sty­li­st Mar­tin Mar­gie­la (b. 1957) at­ta­ched to his gar­men­ts my­ste­rious, plain whi­te fa­bric la­bels on whi­ch no mo­re than a se­rial num­ber iden­ti­fy­ing the ran­ge was prin­ted. Whi­te in its va­rious sub­tle sha­des is his fa­vou­ri­te “non-co­lour”. He al­so uses off­beat ma­te­rials that are not at all what you ex­pect to find in the world of fa­shion, for crea­tions that seem to ha­ve mo­re to do wi­th con­tem­po­ra­ry art than clo­thing ran­ges. From 3 Mar­ch to 15 Ju­ly, the Pa­ris Fa­shion Mu­seum in Pa­lais Gal­lie­ra pre­sen­ts a re­tro­spec­ti­ve wi­th hun­dreds of mo­dels co­ve­ring the twen­ty years from spring­sum­mer 1989 to spring-sum­mer 2009. Mea­n­whi­le, from 22 Mar­ch to 2 Sep­tem­ber, the Mu­sée des Arts Dé­co­ra­tifs of­fers in­sights in­to his col­la­bo­ra­tion wi­th the Her­mès fa­shion hou­se, in the years bet­ween 1997 and 2003

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