Ar­chi­tet­tu­re da in­dos­sa­re

Abitare - - SOMMARIO - cu­ra­ted by Mia Piz­zi txt Li­na Bo­nar­di

Ar­chi­tec­tu­re You Can Wear

cu­ra­ted by mia piz­zi txt li­na bo­nar­di

| Il de­si­gn de­gli oc­chia­li da so­le è cam­po in cui si eser­ci­ta­no fir­me no­te del set­to­re dell’ar­re­da­men­to e an­che ce­le­bri ar­chi­tet­ti. Con ri­sul­ta­ti sor­pren­den­ti e so­fi­sti­ca­ti / Sun­glas­ses de­si­gn is an area whi­ch is now at­trac­ting in­te­re­st from ma­ny well-kno­wn fur­ni­tu­re de­si­gners, and even so­me fa­mous ar­chi­tec­ts and so­me of the re­sul­ts are sur­pri­sin­gly so­phi­sti­ca­ted

DIF­FI­CI­LE DI­RE SE IL MON­DO DE­GLI OC­CHIA­LI da so­le si sia tal­men­te evo­lu­to da at­ti­ra­re mol­ti de­si­gner o se sia sta­to il lo­ro ope­ra­to a con­tri­bui­re de­ci­sa­men­te al­la sua tra­sfor­ma­zio­ne. Di cer­to gli oc­chia­li (e non sol­tan­to quel­li da so­le) so­no og­get­ti sem­pre più ri­cer­ca­ti e la lo­ro pro­get­ta­zio­ne sfi­da or­mai tut­ti i luo­ghi co­mu­ni e le con­sue­tu­di­ni. A co­min­cia­re dai ma­te­ria­li im­pie­ga­ti. Ac­can­to al­le pla­sti­che e ai me­tal­li, so­no com­par­si il le­gno, il la­mi­na­to e per­si­no il mar­mo; tut­ti trat­ta­ti con tec­no­lo­gie so­fi­sti­ca­te in mo­do da ri­sul­ta­re bel­li e con­for­te­vo­li, leg­ge­ri e re­si­sten­ti ol­tre che du­re­vo­li. In di­scus­sio­ne ci so­no per­si­no le len­ti che non è det­to che deb­ba­no es­se­re due e che deb­ba­no ave­re una su­per­fi­cie suf­fi­cien­te­men­te este­sa. So­prat­tut­to per le im­pre­se spor­ti­ve e le con­di­zio­ni più estre­me si pas­sa dal­le scher­ma­tu­re gi­gan­ti di tut­ta l’area ocu­la­re al­le fes­su­ra­zio­ni di mon­ta­tu­re opa­che con fi­na­li­tà pro­tet­ti­ve. Pro­prio nel­lo

HA­VE SUN­GLAS­SES EVOLVED to the point whe­re de­si­gners can no lon­ger af­ford to igno­re them, or ha­ve de­si­gners tran­sfor­med sun­glas­ses? It’s hard to say, but now eve­ryo­ne wan­ts the ul­ti­ma­te in eyewear (and not ju­st sun­glas­ses) and de­si­gners are being cal­led upon to chal­len­ge com­mon­pla­ce no­tions of how they should look… and in­deed what they should be ma­de of. Along­si­de pla­stic and me­tal, we are now seeing spec­ta­cles ma­de of wood, la­mi­na­te and even mar­ble; and all are trea­ted wi­th so­phi­sti­ca­ted tech­no­lo­gies to ma­ke them lo­ve­ly to look at and com­for­ta­ble to wear, as well as light­weight but stur­dy and thus du­ra­ble. Len­ses ha­ve been chan­ging too. They no lon­ger need to be two se­pa­ra­te ones, and they no lon­ger need to co­ver su­ch a lar­ge area. Espe­cial­ly for spor­ting ac­ti­vi­ties and the mo­st ex­tre­me con­di­tions, we are seeing eve­ry­thing from gog­gles co­ve­ring the who­le eye area to sli­ts cut in­to an opa­que fra­me front, de­si­gned

sport as­si­stia­mo a una ri­cer­ca co­stan­te nel set­to­re del­le pre­sta­zio­ni. Per esem­pio nel­le len­ti, do­ve la scher­ma­tu­ra dai rag­gi so­la­ri ri­guar­da Uva e Uvb, ma pu­re la na­tu­ra di­ret­ta o ri­fles­sa del­la ra­dia­zio­ne. I de­si­gner stu­dia­no poi il con­trol­lo dell’ap­pan­na­men­to per­met­ten­do all’aria di cir­co­la­re, si oc­cu­pa­no di co­me ga­ran­ti­re la mag­gio­re ade­ren­za pos­si­bi­le de­gli oc­chia­li al vi­so e di co­me ri­dur­ne l’in­gom­bro quan­do non si usa­no. Non man­ca in­fi­ne la ri­cer­ca più clas­si­ca, quel­la le­ga­ta al­la for­ma. Si stu­dia­no trat­ti ca­rat­te­ri­sti­ci e ri­cor­ren­ti co­sì da ren­de­re in­con­fon­di­bi­le ogni mo­del­lo, o al con­tra­rio, si pro­ce­de per sot­tra­zio­ne ri­du­cen­do all’es­sen­zia­le la gam­ma pro­po­nen­do so­lu­zio­ni uni­ver­sa­li, adat­te a ogni si­tua­zio­ne e ogni in­di­vi­duo. In­fi­ne, ten­den­za del mo­men­to, so­no le rie­di­zio­ni di glo­rio­si mo­del­li del pas­sa­to rie­la­bo­ra­ti con ma­te­ria­li e tec­no­lo­gie più che mai at­tua­li. to pro­tect the eyes. In the world of sport it’s all about im­pro­ving per­for­man­ce, and when it co­mes to len­ses, that means scree­ning out UVA and UVB rays and dea­ling wi­th di­rect or re­flec­ted ra­dia­tion. De­si­gners ha­ve al­so been wor­king out how to stop len­ses fog­ging up by al­lo­wing air to cir­cu­la­te, they ha­ve been loo­king at how to ma­ke glas­ses fit the fa­ce mo­re clo­se­ly and at how to ma­ke them ta­ke up less spa­ce when not in use. And then the­re is the bu­si­ness of fra­me de­si­gn. Stu­dies are being ma­de to crea­te cha­rac­te­ri­stic, re­cur­rent fea­tu­res that will ma­ke ea­ch mo­del uni­que and un­mi­sta­ka­ble, or to pa­re the de­si­gn do­wn to es­sen­tials wi­th the crea­tion of uni­ver­sal so­lu­tions for use by anyo­ne and any­whe­re. Fi­nal­ly, one of the big trends of the mo­ment are re-edi­tions of so­me of the great mo­dels of the pa­st, whi­ch are being rewor­ked wi­th the ve­ry la­te­st ma­te­rials and tech­no­lo­gies.

ABET LA­MI­NA­TI, Mo­bi­le Col­lec­tion, de­si­gn Ni­na Mûr Il la­mi­na­to è ap­pli­ca­to al­la strut­tu­ra com­po­sta da 27 sot­ti­lis­si­me la­mi­ne di le­gno. La­mi­na­te is ap­plied to a struc­tu­re ma­de up of 27 ul­tra-thin layers of wood. www.ni­na­mur.com

POPTICALS, Po­pS­torm, de­si­gn Va­le­rio Co­met­ti+V12 De­si­gn Oc­chia­li spor­ti­vi a ma­sche­ri­na do­ta­ti di mec­ca­ni­smo di pie­ga. Fa­ce ma­sk-sty­le sports eyewear wi­th fold me­cha­ni­sm. www.popticals.com

SA­LI­CE, 019 Per pre­sta­zio­ni spor­ti­ve, Grips ap­pli­ca­bi­li al­le aste per mag­gio­re ade­ren­za al­la te­sta e un pa­io di len­ti sup­ple­men­ta­ri (an­che of­tal­mi­che). For use in va­rious sports, Grips ha­ve arms that of­fer a clo­ser fit and co­me wi­th an ex­tra pair of len­ses (in­clu­ding oph­thal­mic). www.sa­li­ceoc­chia­li.it

OAKLEY, Flight Jac­ket La tec­no­lo­gia Ad­van­cer age­vo­la il flus­so dell’aria, com­bat­te ap­pan­na­men­to e sur­ri­scal­da­men­to mi­glio­ran­do le pre­sta­zio­ni spor­ti­ve. Ad­van­cer tech­no­lo­gy im­pro­ves the air­flow, and pre­ven­ts fog­ging and ove­rhea­ting, thus im­pro­ving sports per­for­man­ce. www.oakley.com

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