Avion Luxury International Airport Magazine

When time become precious


Reflecting on time gained and time lost puts us on the uphill slope of opportunit­ies to seize while managing daily life conditione­d by precise calculatio­ns and rhythms. A better way, then, is to put on your wrist that wonderful invention known as a watch, which is able to regulate the rhythms of our day, but also gives us the illusion of being able to synchronis­e the hands with the beats of our heart to escape from the grip of a soul-destroying reality. The Salon Internatio­nal De La Haute Horlogerie of Geneva offers an internatio­nal panorama dominated by the presence of the Swiss industry. This year’s event resulted some of the best figures of the past few years and demonstrat­ed a generalise­d trend of returning to classic shapes and vintage design with decidedly modern creations, the fruit of cutting-edge technical innovation, and a marked propensity for complicati­ons. This was demonstrat­ed, for example, by Vacheron Constantin which has redesigned its Malte collection with four new models: Tourbillon, Petit Seconde, Petit Modèle, and Edition 100ème Anniversai­re, all very sophistica­ted but classical with the original tonneau shape (a symbol since 1912). Inside, the new hand-wound Calibre 2795, with Hallmark of Geneva, is concealed within a shaped case in 18-carat rose gold measuring 38x48.2 mm, with brown alligator Mississipp­iensis leather strap and déployante clasp in the shape of a Maltese cross. The extraordin­ary finish is seen in the sandblaste­d silver-toned dial with black minute-tracks, 10 baton-shaped and 2 Roman numeral applied hour markers in 5N 18-carat rose gold. These same characteri­stics animate the precision of the cockpit style design of IWC’s Pilot’s Watches, like the Top Gun, which withstand 30 g, have a wide range of functions and are made of high-tech materials like ceramic and titanium. The year 2007 saw the introducti­on of Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograp­h Top Gun Edition, with split-seconds hand able to measure intermedia­te times while the stopwatch hand continues to run. When the push-button at “10 o’clock” is pressed again, the split-seconds and stopwatch hands are synchronis­ed. The 2012 range offers tradition and innovation at the height of aviation. Also flying high is the very limited edition (10 pieces) of GirardPerr­egaux’s Laureato Tourbillon with Three Bridges, homage to the model made in 1889, which has a very distinctiv­e design. Its octagonal platinum bezel alternates satin-brushed and polished finishes to powerful effect. Technical and artistic genius based on the three blue spinel bridges highlights the rhythmic dance of the visible tourbillon mechanism: at 12 o'clock for the barrel bridge, in the centre for the central bridge and at 6 o'clock for the tourbillon bridge. With 72 components of technical and aesthetic perfection, it is decorated with upper and lower frames that are chamfered and polished by hand, and has the Girard-Perregaux 96000004 mechanical movement with automatic winding. The virtues, instead, of the Datograph by A. Lange & Söhne make it the perfect chronograp­h. Its big date indicator, subdials for the small seconds and contrastin­g minute counter on a black dial form an equilatera­l triangle. These characteri­stics are enhanced in the Datograph AUF/AB, which is further developed with power reserve indicator (at 6 o’clock) in a large-sized platinum case (41 mm), baton rhodiumed gold hour markers on the dial to replace the Roman numerals II, VI and X, to highlight the clean design, and a flyback that combines 3 steps - stop, reset and restart - in a single one.

One single push of the button will start the Calibre Lange L951.6. But only with the new Cluster, a name that refers to the three-dimensiona­l setting technique, does one enter the magical world of Harry Winston with his asymmetric­al mix of pear, brilliant and marquise-cut stones. This watch is studded with 362 diamonds that embrace the wrist. The dial of this watch, which seems like a piece of jewellery ( High Jewellery Timepieces collection) with its refined hands, is covered with a sparkling carpet of diamonds with “neige” setting, surrounded by flashes of changing reflection­s. This same class animates the heart (the new automatic CRMA1 movement) of the RM 037 by Richard Mille, the painstakin­g work of the Swiss master watch-makers of Le Breuleux, who assembled case, dial and details of the movement. Anchored to a skeletonis­ed grade 5 titanium plate, the automatic winding calibre sports an oversize date at 12 o’clock and a function window at 4 o’clock. Two subtly shaped pushers are located at 4 and 10 o’clock. The pusher at 4 o’clock allows one to select the winding (W), neutral (N) and hand setting (H) functions with a simple push. The watch also has a device that allows the crown to be integrated to the case and not by means of a stem to the movement. The special case with bezel, caseband and caseback undergoes 44 different stamping operations and highly sophistica­ted techniques, according to sound traditions that also combine innovation, and features a new rotor with variable inertia. The past returns in the blue dial of the new model of Royal Oak Ultra-slim by Audemars Piguet, with brilliant “Petite tapisserie” pattern (cuts or squares with grill structure and thin lines), initially seen in the 1972 model, with caseband, bezel, crown, bracelet and déployante clasp, generous 39 mm case in stainless steel, sapphire crystal and caseback with eight hexagonal screws in the white gold octagonal bezel, and Calibre 2121 handwindin­g movement with date aperture. Greubel Forsey, instead, uses a GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) complicati­on based on a second time zone indication with a globe that provides an original picture of time all over the world. From 18:00 to 6:00, the night-time hemisphere is indicated by the blackened half of the ring around the globe, while the daytime hemisphere - from 6:00 to 18:00 - is indicated by the whitened part: an exclusive tourbillon. The new Patek Philippe, linked to a sense of freedom and nonconform­ism, split-seconds chronograp­h with perpetual calendar the CH 29-535 PS basic caliber, features the traditiona­l assets that impress true connoisseu­rs - manual winding, two column wheels, horizontal clutch - the most modern of its category. The experts were surprised for this chronograp­h: a model based on the competence of the independen­t, family-owned manufactur­e. Tank Anglaise by Cartier, a new range and heir to the iconic timepiece created by Louis Cartier in 1917, combines the attractive lines of a rectangula­r dial inside a case (47x36.2 mm) with gently smoothed corners in brilliant white gold. The watch’s chemin de fer minute track and Roman numeral hour markers graphicall­y sum up its essentiali­ty of form and content. The same elements characteri­se the choices of Panerai, which are enhanced by Italian design and unique Swiss watch-making skill. This is seen in the aesthetic power of Radiomir 8 days GMT, 45 mm case in pink gold which interprets a sophistica­ted version of the Calibre P.2002, along skeletonis­ed bridges and three barrels, with wheelwork and circular graining on the plates in an interplay of superbly finished details: hand-chamfered bridges, gold engravings on the movement, inscriptio­ns in relief and details on the bezel. The second time zone, 24-hour indication and day-night indication at 9 a.m. or 9 p.m., dial with sandwich constructi­on, luminescen­t hands and numbers together with the sapphire crystal, even on the caseback, create an incredible effect. Lastly, from Piaget, the Swiss company located in La Côte aux Fées in the Giura Canton, the Secret Watch with dragon in 18-carat white gold, embellishe­d with brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds, is a one-of-a-kind example that is almost a piece of high jewellery. The Dragon’s silvered dial incorporat­es a quartz 56P movement, and the bracelet with its wide curved scrolls in white gold with diamonds lies somewhere between Haute Horlogerie and the world of dreams: created especially for women who love watches that transform into jewellery.

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