Chanel: Haute Cou­ture is Paris

Avion Luxury International Airport Magazine - - HAUTE COUTURE -

The thoughts of Karl Lager­feld, artis­tic direc­tor of the Mai­son, sum up the prin­ci­pal vo­ca­tion of Chanel from the time when Gabrielle (Coco) Chanel opened her first fash­ion house in 1915. Haute Cou­ture gives free rein to any idea, with­out lim­its, to­gether with a cre­ativ­ity that goes hand in hand with the high­est stan­dards. The essence of the Au­tumn Win­ter 2018/19 Haute Cou­ture Col­lec­tion by Chanel cap­tures the vi­sion of the de­signer and with unique skill is em­bod­ied in the per­fec­tion of the cut, the de­tails and the savoir-faire of the mai­son, which brings its ex­pe­ri­ence to ev­ery look with pre­ci­sion of line, form and struc­ture to achieve unique cre­ations. The skill of the head tai­lors and their teams of ex­perts is ev­i­dent: in their tal­ented hands, the de­tailed sketches of Karl Lager­feld come to life, cel­e­brat­ing the vir­tu­os­ity of ex­tra­or­di­nary crafts­men: from cre­ations in tweed, much loved by Gabrielle Chanel, laces and silk, to de­signs that use feath­ers, flow­ers and em­broi­dery, and ac­ces­sories such as hats, gloves and jew­els. Chanel’s Mai­son Métiers d'art com­bines the stan­dards and ex­cel­lence with­out com­pro­mise of sev­eral ate­liers with ex­cep­tional knowhow, in­clud­ing Le­marié, the flower and feather spe­cial­ist; Mas­saro, the shoe­maker; Mai­son Lesage and Mon­tex, em­broi­der­ers; Mai­son Michel, the milliner; Causse, the glove-maker, and Lognon, the spe­cial­ist plis­seur. Karl Lager­feld, who is very at­tached to the French cap­i­tal, with his new col­lec­tion pays homage to lit­er­ary Paris, the Paris of book lovers and the Académie Française; dur­ing fash­ion week he trans­formed the Grand Palais into a long River Seine flanked by book sell­ers with their typ­i­cal green stalls. In this mag­i­cal, ex­tremely ro­man­tic and cap­ti­vat­ing time­less set, Chanel’s Parisi­ennes wore an­kle boots with fold-over cuffs, had hair styles with Rock­a­billy quiffs at the front, flow­ing pony tails be­hind, and in­tense eye make-up il­lu­mi­nated by del­i­cate glit­ter that re­flected light and charm. The col­lec­tion ex­presses the best of a Paris Au­tumn

in­spired by a palette of sea­sonal colours: the pale grey of roofs, the an­thracite of street as­phalt, the black of the deep­est night, and the golden and sil­ver re­flec­tions of the moon; these colours are soft­ened by pale pink, the mauve of dawn, the white, ecru and beige of misty morn­ings and the green of the roofs of his­toric build­ings. In this ex­alted Paris, crys­tal em­broi­dery is aligned like cob­bles and gold-em­broi­dered tulle net­ting evokes the pad­locks of the Pont des Arts: a dec­la­ra­tion of love for a city of fash­ion and cul­ture, with a rich his­toric her­itage. Tweed, clas­si­cal fab­rics or plumetis, flan­nel, vel­vet, crêpe, lace, taffeta, radz­imir and chif­fon adorn slim sil­hou­ettes em­pha­sised by “High Pro­file” zips, a dis­tinc­tive and orig­i­nal fea­ture of the col­lec­tion. Zips that are em­bel­lished to ap­pear like wo­ven em­broi­dery run along the body and trans­form the look of tweed out­fits and evening gowns, open­ing the pro­file of skirts and jack­ets with nar­row sleeves, at times fram­ing them com­pletely. Ul­tra-el­e­gant zips run along jacket sleeves re­veal­ing ex­tra-long half-gloves and con­trast­ing lin­ings in silk and bro­cade. The el­e­gant pro­file of the leg is re­vealed through zips on long skirts and dresses made of tweed, vel­vet and chif­fon. Dresses, with side splits, re­veal em­broi­dered mini-skirts and each look gives a glimpse of a se­cond shorter, tone-on-tone skirt, with fin­ishes in tweed or se­quin em­broi­dery. Rein­ter­preted this way the iconic dress al­ter­nates with trompe-l'oeil out­fits and long over­coats. Chif­fon blouses, high col­lars, lace tops and oth­ers with bodices em­broi­dered with se­quins, pearls and crys­tals fur­ther adorn the col­lec­tion. For the evening bodices are richly em­bel­lished, em­broi­dered and draped with bows, in con­trast to skirts and the lower half of dresses. Light­ness and del­i­cacy, el­e­gance and class are ev­ery­where, in ev­ery de­tail: chif­fon, tulle, em­broi­dered tops, drap­ing neck­lines and lace em­broi­dery, asym­met­ric shapes over shoul­ders, long straight chif­fon skirts lay­ered with flat pleats, bustiers worn with tulle bal­loon skirts, tops with crys­tals, vo­lu­mi­nous skirts made of white, black or grey chif­fon, gilets em­broi­dered like a sun­set and boleros of night-coloured se­quins that shine like the light re­flected in the Seine. In ev­ery de­tail Karl Lager­feld cel­e­brates Paris as the unique cap­i­tal of fash­ion, the arts and cul­ture, in har­mony with Chanel.

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