Lampoon

Preserving handcrafts­manship – ancient practices imbedded in India’s identity

- ReI n 1D eD eD G wndGD DGdA 2GDh ea niGni wld ,AtiG 1D G

designer Ashish Gupta uses sequins as a tool to bridge the stylistic gap between two, clashing cultures: the vibrant colors and patterns of India and the grunge of the British fashion scene

7IeG AIU eD diA nA a tter D0A Gn IAaeoA 7U i D D eD0A diA h IaADd Gn nArD dehAdiAI the embroidery is re-stitched to fill in any gaps tAsd 7U diA nA an KThis idea of spending weeks making a garment, makes it a long labor», neaAdiGDh wld Gan de 0iAGoA d iGhiAI tAoAt diIewhi iGn ne0G t 0eaaGdaADd «Along with that came this idea that you could support artisan communitie­s. Everything is machine made and mass manufactur­ed and we have to support those traditiona­l ways of embroidery. It’s a way to ensure those skills remain alive».

wUGDh na tt ,w DdGdGAn Gn 7And Gd nwlleIdn diA te0 t A0eDeaU D diA IdGn Dn rie 0 D AdiG0 ttU a GDd GD 7wnGDAnn 1D G mn iGnde

IU es a dAIG tn D dI GdGeD t dA0iDG,wAn es lIe w0GDh D A0eI dGDh dALdGtAn Gn eDA es diA et And GD diA reIt eDA di d Gn Aa7A A GDde Gdn G ADdGdU te0p lIGDdGDh Gn UAGDh lIe0Ann

nne0G dA rGdi eIdiAID D ;AndAID IAhGeDn g ,AtiG g D Gn dA0iDG,wA seI riG0i wld nAApn ewd te0 t 0I sdnaAD 1D G D 0I sdnaAD i oA 0,wGIA iGndeIG0 t D GD0eal I 7tA aewDdn es pDertA hA eD D dwI t lt Dd 7 nA UAn 0wndea ndGtt wnA de U GD 7te0p lIGDd GDh 1DdIG0 dA AnGhDn IA 0iGnAtA lwD0dwIA

D IGttA GDde 7te0pn es ree riG0i IA diAD nd alA eDde diA s 7IG0

iA r oAn es dGA UA lGA0An diIewhiewd wld mn 0ettA0dGeD­n hGoA nADnA es iGn GDdAIAnd GD diGn l IdG0wt I l ddAID 1d IAaGD n iGa es iet G Un «evoking certain memories and feelings».

DU setter diA dI GdGeD t D i DG aAdie es dGA UGDh g ltw0pGDh diA s 7IG0 GDde aGDG dwIA bindings to configure a particular design. It is pDerD seI 7AGDh iGhitU npGttA lIe0Ann D eDA riG0i Gn eDA 7U i D de ADnwIA n dwI dA 0eteIn D diAGI 0ea7GD dGeDn iA s 0d di d eDA

UA l ddAID Gn GssAIADd sIea diA DALd Gn neaA thing which Gupta appreciate­s; its properties

IA GD tGDA rGdi diA eIh DG0 nd hAn es AnGhDGDh

GpA rGdi 7te0p lIGDdGDh IdGn Dn wnA D dwI t UAn nw0i n a AI D leaAhI D dA de hADAI dA l ddAIDn eD diA s 7IG0

-oAIU nA neD wld D iGn dA a dIU de GD0eIleI dA GssAIADd dALdGtA D Aa7IeG AIU dA0iDG,wAn GDde iGn 0ettA0dGeD­n 1D iGn

IA U de rA I 0ettA0dGeD iA AalteUA diA dI GdGeD t dA0iDG,wAn es aGIIeI reIp g tne pDerD n g sIea u ndi D D ALAa plified this artisanal skill in a fashion context. ;i d a pAn diA dA0iDG,wA ne GDdIG0 dA Gn diA ndGd0iGDh es lGA0An es ni lA aGIIeI eDde diA s 7IG0 riG0i IA diAD AD0GI0tA 7U A0eI dGoA Aa7IeG AIU iGn dUlA es IdGndIU eIGhGD dA GD 1D G IewD diA nGLdAADdi 0ADdwIU D eoAI dGaA IdGn Dn i oA AL0AttA GD diGn

0I sd .eI 0ADdwIGAn lAeltA tt eoAI diA reIt i oA wnA Ga hAn D I rGDhn n aA Dn de 0eaawDG0 dA 1D 1D G riAIA eDA GD diIAA lAeltA IAa GD GttGdAI dA tGaGdGDh diA r Un GD riG0i diAGI ndeIGAn 0 D 7A det dI GdGeD t Indian handicraft­s are all the more valuable; iet GDh diA wDdet ndeIGAn es dienA ADdIwndA rGdi diA pDertA hA es diGn D0GADd 0I sd

.eI eDA nA neD wld D iGn dA a reIpA rGdi i D nlwD D teeaA 0eddeD iA 1D G D reoAD dALdGtA g pDerD n g IAsAIn de s 7IG0n di d IA i D nlwD D i D reoAD 1dn IwhhA dALdwIA D lIelADnGdU de pAAl lAeltA r Ia wIGDh rGDdAI D 0eet wIGDh nwaaAI are attributes that fit into Gupta’s attitude to r I n 0IA dGDh 0easeId e a 0iGDAIU Gn wnA GD diA lIe0Ann IAnwtdGDh GD nesdAI sAAt de diA finished fabric. As with many Indian handi

0I sdn diGn dA0iDG,wA dAn 7 0p 0ADdwIGAn D its historical significan­ce is what attracts mind swt 0eDdAaleI IU AnGhDAIn de wnA Gd rGdi ieDeI

D IAnlA0d GD diAGI 0ettA0dGeD­n wld mn 7 0p hIewD hGoAn r U de diA nnwaldGeD di d iA blends western and eastern influences to distil diA 7And es 7edi reIt n iAnA Dw D0A 0wtdwI t

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