Pick it up and put it in the trash
«The worst case scenario is death and with these big waves you don’t know exactly how long they can hold you under. That's why drowning is a high-risk occurrence.
The thought is never out of mind, it's always there and the way to prepare for it is if I’m not in the water surfing, I’m training every single day, either in the gym focusing on my body recovering». Behind Barnes' technical finesse lies a rigorous physical conditioning routine. To meet the demands of professional surfing, he maintains a comprehensive training program that focuses on strength, flexibility, and endurance, «other things that I do are what I call stress management practices like breath hold techniques and putting my body in stressful situations and not panicking essentially».
Beyond the physical act of riding waves, surfing fosters a connection to nature.
Barnes possesses an ability to read the ocean, anticipating its move and adapting to its rhythm. He explains that a big part of it is reading the ocean, understanding the movement of the wave, how it works, how it bends and the amount of wind force that is driving it, cultivating an understanding of how waves behave. «You have to see it coming from the horizon and anticipate what it’ll do next, and that is something you learn through experience». Barnes admits that fear is a strong emotion that is always there with him when surfing, and that the more he does the scarier it becomes due to the severity of many situations.
One of the most serious risks is getting trapped underwater by two or more waves at the same time. Surviving a triple hold-down is exceedingly challenging, and professional surfers like Barnes must be prepared to deal with these kinds of circumstances. Through his constant training Barnes was able to have a resilient mindset allowing him to make splitsecond decisions and execute maneuvers with confidence and precision. «It is something that needs to be there, without fear you would make mistakes and bad things would happen. That fear that is always there keeps me calculated, sharp and allows me to understand the risk that I’m taking and the satisfaction of conquering your fear you’re surviving and getting back to the beach safely.
The wave of my life was on a day that wasn’t necessarily that good, windy and dangerous kind of day we were sitting at the lineup
When I am scared, I am the most focused out of all time in my life».
Amidst the rides and awe-inspiring vistas, there is an undeniable reality: surfing demands respect. It humbles even the most seasoned riders, reminding them of their insignificance in the face of nature's power. Surfers become attuned to the ebb and flow of the tides, the shifts in wind, and the everchanging moods of the ocean and there aren’t many athletes who could identify with those pressures. «I respect fear as an emotion, and as uncomfortable as it may sound, I appreciate it more than anything in this world».
Surfing is becoming popular year after year. With this increase, surfers and the greater surfing community recognize their role as ocean caretakers, taking action to conserve the environment. By adopting environmental protection, Barnes clarifies that surfers can ensure that future generations can experience the same sense of wonder and freedom that the ocean brings.
«It’s as simple as doing your part as a human being, walking on the beach means you are a part of it. The least you could do is if you find something, pick it up and put it in the trash». Through his platform as a professional surfer, Barnes actively engages in initiatives that promote sustainable practices and raise awareness about the threats facing our oceans. He understands that the beauty he experiences on the waves is tied to the health of the marine ecosystem. «No matter who you are or what you do or what you like, the ocean has a place in your life. If you’re put on this earth, it is one of the things to be a part of. I’m grateful that I get to see it and be a part of it every day, I want to push that to all parts of the world».
Surfing brings a sense of community. Surfers form tight-knit tribes, united by a shared love for the sport and the ocean. «Some of my best friends are some of the best surfers in the world, and they have pushed me to be the best version of myself. Whether it's the camaraderie in the lineup, the exchange of stories and tips on the beach, or the support and encouragement during competitions, surfers find solace in the bonds forged through their common pursuit. There is a big surfing community here in North Caroline but not a lot of kids take it seriously and I want to be an image to show them that if they want to do this as a career and if they put in the work and the time, then they can do the same thing that I am doing right now».
It's a dance with the waves, an embodiment of freedom, a celebration of the boundless beauty that lies beyond the shore. «The ocean has had the worst memories of my life and has shaped me into the human that I am today. From the highest highs to the lowest lows. I’m a boy from North Carolina, where there are no waves bigger than one feet tall, and my dream was to ride the biggest wave in the world».
Barnes's talent did not go unnoticed.
As he began competing in local surf contests, his natural ability and style caught the attention of seasoned surfers and industry professionals. It wasn't long before he gained recognition on a broader scale, earning invitations to competitions and surf events. «In surfing there are a couple turning points that can affect someone’s career; either winning a contest or having surfed a particular wave like no other. I had the benefit of chasing big waves all around the world and the first time I got the world’s attention was when I rode a big wave in Nazaré years ago and it was a pinnacle turning point in my career because at that stage it was one of the bigger waves ever ridden in surfing. It showed everyone that I was up there with the rest of the world and that I can do what the best guys are doing at a young age and that made me realize that ok I’m here I can do this, and it was a domino effect after that surfing wave after wave after wave».
A decade ago, Nazaré, home to 15,000 inhabitants, remained relatively unknown along with its big waves, even within the big-wave surfing community. The situation changed when Garrett McNamara, a 52-year-old Hawaiian and a prominent figure in the sport, received information from local bodyboarders. It is now widely known as the home to the biggest surfable waves on the planet.
«The wave of my life was on a day that wasn’t necessarily that good, windy and dangerous kind of day we were sitting at the lineup, almost giving up with no one else but me and my team. It was almost like the wave found me and all the stars aligned, and it all happened».
On what many regarded as one of the biggest swells in recent memory, Barnes surfed one of the biggest waves of the day under McNamara's supervision. Although the confirmed wave height has not yet been determined, Barnes' reputation as a big-wave surfer to watch was further enhanced.
As the professional surfer puts it, that it is always a learning curve; some waves will come and seem to be insignificant but end up being incredible ones and sometimes the complete opposite may occur never knowing what to expect. «Every single wave is different; every single day is different. Twenty years into this career and I’m still putting in time and I’m still trying to figure it out. It's a constant learning curve and is never repetitive. There is a certain extent that you can put yourself in a situation to get the wave but then the rest is up to Mother Nature».
Surfing, traditionally seen as an individual sport, is recognized as a collaborative endeavor involving a team of specialists.
Surfing extends beyond the solitary act of riding waves. According to Barnes his team generally consists of four people. «You have a person on the cliff that is overlooking the ocean watching where you are from a land perspective, you then have two other people in the water with you on two different jet skis one is pulling you into the wave and one is watching over you on the jet ski and then you have me surfing».
«Each person has a role just like the surfer if not even more, because without these jet ski drivers and without them overlooking and keeping a safe eye I wouldn’t be able to do what I do, it would be too risky and dangerous».
His team are trained professionals that have deep understanding of the ocean and of the sport and have been able to bring him back to safety every time. «It is something that people oversee, they see the wave, they see the result but what they don’t see is the jet ski drivers and the process behind it and the team». By leveraging their collective expertise, these professionals contribute to Barnes’s holistic growth, enabling him to push boundaries, achieve his desired goals, and fully embrace the dynamic world of surfing.
Born and raised in a coastal town called Wrightsville Beach, North Carolina, surfer Mason Hyde Barnes developed an affinity for the ocean at an early age. It was during his formative years that he first discovered the waves. What started as a hobby soon transformed into a pursuit. The athlete was nominated for the TAG Heuer Wipeout of the Year award at the 2016 WSL Big Wave Awards.
The sport captivates the dance between human and nature, a symphony of adrenaline, skill, and pure exhilaration. From the moment a surfer sets foot on the board and paddles out into the ocean, a world of possibilities unfolds. «This sport is more than just riding the wave, it's about dealing with the ocean, it has got so much to give and so much to take».
A sport that transcends mere physicality, offering a connection with the rhythm of the sea and the untamed power of the waves. «When you are in the ocean, you’re in its hands and no one else’s, you don’t know what’s going to happen and that’s the thing about it is there is always something different, it’s not ever perfect. You can only prepare so much».
«I always wanted the bigger wave, always stayed in the water longer than anyone else. When I felt that satisfaction of getting a career changing wave, something substantial for the first time was that hook that showed me that all the work and extra miles put in paid off».
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