LUXE City Guides - Florence - - Oltrarno I -

Start at the statue of Bac­chus on the Ol­trarno side of the Ponte Vec­chio and turn right for an am­ble down evoca­tive Borgo San Ja­copo. On the right at #12r, stock up on sub­lime soaps and can­dles at Or­ti­gia / 055 282 129 / or­ti­gia­si­ Fur­ther down on your right is #38r Domit De­sign / 055 289 268 / domit­de­ / with sump­tu­ous fab­rics, made to or­der. Carry on past the me­dieval tower on your left, opp. is Ho­tel Lun­garno (see Ac­com.) and BSJ (see Rest./Smart), then Skin on the right at #64r (see Spa). On your left at #41r is Pagliai / 055 282 840 / the beloved fam­ily sil­ver­smith. Cross for scagli­ola kings #70r Bianco Bianchi (see Adv. Shop.), then tis­sue-sized boîte Lo Spillo at #72r / 055 293 126 / with its jew­ellery finds. Pier­luigi Franchi at #80r has a bunch of prints and maps, and opp. is #55 Gio­vanni Manetti / 055 214 702 / for carved co­ral and jew­els, and Cam­millo (see Rest./Ca­sual). Take a right into Pi­azza dei Frescobaldi for #1 Leopoldo & Co / 055 280 991 / leopoldan­ti­ / with an el­e­gantly edited an­tique and dé­cor col­lec­tion, then treat your­self across the pi­azza at de­li­cious Santa Trinita (see Ge­la­te­ria) by the river. Re­trace back to BSJ and turn right (now Via Santo Spir­ito). First up on the right at #4r is firm fave Olio & Con­vivium (see Rest./Smart) and just past it at #8 is fabby in­te­rior cache Lux by Area / stu­ Strike a pause for a cuppa at #11 La Via del Te’ (see Coffee), then you’ll find won­der­ful wood wizards Cas­to­rina at #13r (see Stand­out Stores), and fab florist #26r Fio­r­ile / 055 204 9032 / on the right. Stu­dio Puck at #28r / 055 280 954 / stu­diop­ / has lovely hand-coloured prints and frames, while an­tique dream Mau­r­izio Salici is at #32. On the left at #27 Lo Stu­di­olo / 055 287 958 / lostu­di­ / spe­cialises in painted furny and retro restora­tion, across the street at #40r Li­bre­ria d’Arte Br­uschi / 055 210 374 / is known for its col­lec­tion of art books, then on to #42 for funky, frilly gal gear at Quelle Tre / 055 219 374. The Queen of Resin An­gela Ca­puti res­onates at #58r / 055 212 972 / with her chunk n’ funk jew­els, while fur­ther on the right at #60r is Il Santino (see Wine Bars) and Il Santo Be­vi­tore (see Rest./Re­laxed) at #66r. Need a wee? Turn right at the lights into Pi­azza Nazario Sauro to find jippy Caffè Ol­trarno for an espresso and a quick sieve of your greens, or if you fancy a treat, nip up to the bridge, and on the left dis­cover La Car­raia (see Ge­la­te­ria). Get shade-y at #14r I Vi­sion­ari / 055 282 714 / ivi­sion­, then back to Santo Spir­ito, cross di­rectly over and up Via dei Ser­ragli for #10r Bronzista / 055 294 694 / with su­per knock­ers + all things bronze, prêt-àfrap­per or made-to-or­der. Next, find pretty fem­mewear at #12r Il Cor­tile / 055 282 985, then Luca at #16r / 055 239 8857 / sal­vages and rein­vents ev­ery­thing he can get his hands on. Across the street at #1-3r, down an espresso at Cu­cu­lia / 055 277 6205 / cu­cu­ / and browse their kool se­lec­tion of books. Rum­mage through gran’s old cou­ture at #20r Al­brici / 055 211 095, then Ceri at #26r / 335 839 0356 / has some great vin­tage fab­ric frip­peries, and on the left is #9r Do­mus Aurea / 055 291 699 / do­ / with an eclec­tic mix of res­cued, retro and an­tique dé­cor. Exit Do­mus, cross and turn right down Via Santa Monaca to reach Pi­azza del Carmine – jew­ellery school Alchimia (see Ac­tiv­i­ties) is mere steps away at Pi­azza Pi­at­tel­lina, 3r. Fin­ish up with a shufty at the di­vine Bran­cacci Chapel (see Sites), or lunch at Trat­to­ria del Carmine (see Rest./Re­laxed). Fab!

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