Start at the statue of Bacchus on the Oltrarno side of the Ponte Vecchio and turn right for an amble down evocative Borgo San Jacopo. On the right at #12r, stock up on sublime soaps and candles at Ortigia / 055 282 129 / ortigiasicilia.com. Further down on your right is #38r Domit Design / 055 289 268 / domitdesign.it / with sumptuous fabrics, made to order. Carry on past the medieval tower on your left, opp. is Hotel Lungarno (see Accom.) and BSJ (see Rest./Smart), then Skin on the right at #64r (see Spa). On your left at #41r is Pagliai / 055 282 840 / the beloved family silversmith. Cross for scagliola kings #70r Bianco Bianchi (see Adv. Shop.), then tissue-sized boîte Lo Spillo at #72r / 055 293 126 / with its jewellery finds. Pierluigi Franchi at #80r has a bunch of prints and maps, and opp. is #55 Giovanni Manetti / 055 214 702 / for carved coral and jewels, and Cammillo (see Rest./Casual). Take a right into Piazza dei Frescobaldi for #1 Leopoldo & Co / 055 280 991 / leopoldantichita.com / with an elegantly edited antique and décor collection, then treat yourself across the piazza at delicious Santa Trinita (see Gelateria) by the river. Retrace back to BSJ and turn right (now Via Santo Spirito). First up on the right at #4r is firm fave Olio & Convivium (see Rest./Smart) and just past it at #8 is fabby interior cache Lux by Area / studioarea.eu. Strike a pause for a cuppa at #11 La Via del Te’ (see Coffee), then you’ll find wonderful wood wizards Castorina at #13r (see Standout Stores), and fab florist #26r Fiorile / 055 204 9032 / on the right. Studio Puck at #28r / 055 280 954 / studiopuck.it / has lovely hand-coloured prints and frames, while antique dream Maurizio Salici is at #32. On the left at #27 Lo Studiolo / 055 287 958 / lostudiolo.com / specialises in painted furny and retro restoration, across the street at #40r Libreria d’Arte Bruschi / 055 210 374 / is known for its collection of art books, then on to #42 for funky, frilly gal gear at Quelle Tre / 055 219 374. The Queen of Resin Angela Caputi resonates at #58r / 055 212 972 / with her chunk n’ funk jewels, while further on the right at #60r is Il Santino (see Wine Bars) and Il Santo Bevitore (see Rest./Relaxed) at #66r. Need a wee? Turn right at the lights into Piazza Nazario Sauro to find jippy Caffè Oltrarno for an espresso and a quick sieve of your greens, or if you fancy a treat, nip up to the bridge, and on the left discover La Carraia (see Gelateria). Get shade-y at #14r I Visionari / 055 282 714 / ivisionari.com, then back to Santo Spirito, cross directly over and up Via dei Serragli for #10r Bronzista / 055 294 694 / with super knockers + all things bronze, prêt-àfrapper or made-to-order. Next, find pretty femmewear at #12r Il Cortile / 055 282 985, then Luca at #16r / 055 239 8857 / salvages and reinvents everything he can get his hands on. Across the street at #1-3r, down an espresso at Cuculia / 055 277 6205 / cuculia.it / and browse their kool selection of books. Rummage through gran’s old couture at #20r Albrici / 055 211 095, then Ceri at #26r / 335 839 0356 / has some great vintage fabric fripperies, and on the left is #9r Domus Aurea / 055 291 699 / domusaureafirenze.com / with an eclectic mix of rescued, retro and antique décor. Exit Domus, cross and turn right down Via Santa Monaca to reach Piazza del Carmine – jewellery school Alchimia (see Activities) is mere steps away at Piazza Piattellina, 3r. Finish up with a shufty at the divine Brancacci Chapel (see Sites), or lunch at Trattoria del Carmine (see Rest./Relaxed). Fab!