An­tiques and Ar­ti­sans

LUXE City Guides - Florence - - Oltrarno Ii -

Start with an am­ble over Florence’s very own Fort Knox, the Ponte Vec­chio, for a wal­let cleanse at ge­nius gem­mers Fratelli Pic­cini at #23r / 055 294 768, then, fin­gers twin­kling, cont. across the bridge to the Ol­trarno side and up Via de’ Guic­cia­r­dini. With Madova on your left at #1 (see Stand. Stores) hike right down Via de’ Bar­badori to find hand­made hush pup­pies at #19r Man­nina / 055 211 060, and fur­ther on at #41r Tavoli di Marmo / 055 215 766 / tavo­lidi­ / has in­laid mar­ble what­nots. Whip to the end and then left up Via dei Ra­maglianti, and right down Via dello Sprone for a sweet stop at Ge­la­te­ria della Passera (see Ge­la­te­ria) on the right cnr, and lit­tle Pi­azza della Passera in front, which for cen­turies was home to sev­eral broth­els. The ta­bles un­der the para­sol be­long to Tus­can treat 4 Leoni / 055 218 562, 5 e Cinque is at #1 / 055 274 1583, tripe tratt Il Magazz­ino is at #2/3 / 055 215 969, and #5r Bar­tolozzi e Maioli / bar­tolozzi / is a camp and comely mix of an­tique religious and dec­o­ra­tive carv­ings. Exit Bar­tolozzi right and turn right up Via Toscanella to see the Oro e Colore School of Restora­tion at #18r / 055 289 415 / oroe­col­, fol­lowed by B&C at #26r / 055 211 437 / / for a rather nifty range of hand­made an­tique-style storm lamps, star lanterns and brass light­ing. The big Pinocchino statue beck­ons you in for a pit­stop at #32-36 Toscanella (see Rest./Ca­sual), or scoot on to the end to hit Sdruc­ci­olo dei Pitti. Op­tions. Turn left for Pi­azza de’ Pitti, a few steps to your right at #5 is modish milliner An­to­nio Gatto (see Stand. Stores), while on the left cnr is Pitti Mo­saici (see Adv. Shop.). Con­tinue left here for Pitti Gola e Cantina (see Wine Bars) and a few mins more brings you to Gi­ulio Gian­nini e Figlio at #37r (see Stand­out Stores). Or, head right down cutey Sdruc­ci­olo for Le Telerie Toscane at #15r / 055 216 177 / leteleri­ / with ace linens + they’ll make any­thing to or­der from table­cloths to quilts, then shoe-be-do Mara Broc­cardi at #17r (see Adv. Shop.). On you go, cross Via Mag­gio and keep head­ing straight on Mich­e­lozzi for Casalinga (see Rest./Re­laxed); Gus­taPanino on the cor­ner opp. the church does a mean take­out; next door is cob­bler Roberto Ugolini at #17r / 055 216 246 (see Sar­to­ri­al­ista) for clas­sic hand­made shoes; and round the cor­ner in the pi­azza is Borgo An­tico (see Rest./Re­laxed) and Vol­ume (see Bars). Now, if Tus­can painted furny is your bag, ham­mer down Via del Presto di San Martino to the right of the church to find Au­ten­ti­qua at #20r / 055 282 935 / for a slew of coun­try-style ar­moires and draw­ers, plus they take cus­tom or­ders, oth­er­wise turn and go back the way you came, cross­ing Mich­e­lozzi into Borgo Te­go­laio. If vin­tage 60s/70s light­ing fires your fuse scoot on to His­tor­i­cal De­sign at #23r / 055 218 327 / 338 696 9019 / open Fri, Sat & 2nd Sun of each month, then back­track till you meet Via Mazzetta. Swing right then left onto an­tique-laden Via Mag­gio and grab a java hit at #61r Dol­cis­sima (see Coffee)... you’ll need it. This street is lit­er­ally a trea­sure trove (check out the beaut black n’ white Palazzo Bianca Cap­pello on the left at #26). Criss­cross and am­ble, but don’t miss be­spoke hooves at #68/70r Mario Be­mer (see Sar­to­ri­al­ista), Brit-alian Betty Soldi’s cal­lig­ra­phy art at #60r &Co / 055 219 973 / and­com­pa­, the an­tique fab­rics at #23r Piselli Balzano / 055 239 8029, #15r Pe­tra Casini’s / pe­tra­ / gob­stop­per gems, and #11r Translu­cido / translu­ / with deco lamps. Cham­pion! Now, zip over Borgo San Ja­copo to Pi­azza Frescobaldi for river­side licks at Santa Trinita (see Ge­la­te­ria). Buonis­simo!

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