Brera

Cab it to fishy apero dish Da Claudio (see Bars) at Via Cusani, 1 ( M: Cairoli, exit Via Cusani, with UNA Hotel on your right and walk down towards the huge billboard), saying ciao to Antonia at #5 / 02 86998340, prima donna of shoes and bags, and, on the corner of Via Ponte Vetero opposite, ultra funk footwear label Golden Goose Deluxe Brand at #1 / 02 89011921. Exit left and either keep left, heading up Via Sacchi to reach the divine Vintage Delirium at #3 (see Standout Stores), and designer sustainable and salvaged timber furny at #5 Environment / 02 91270992. Or, cross Ponte Vetero and head right, then turn left into Via dell’Orso. On the right is Parronchi at #9 / 02 72023654 / with C.19th20th European paintings, then on the left at #12 is Antichi Vizi / 02 8056474 / with antique smoking and drinking accoutrements. Exit Antichi Vizi left and then turn left into Via Brera. At #2 is Roberto Musso / 02 89092248 / with bright, handsewn silk dresses; art and design gallery Anna Maria Consandori / 02 72021767; plus a branch of Cavalli & Nastri / 02 72000449 / who made vintage hip. Next up at #6 are Profumo, with a bounty of whiffs, and trad stationers Riga Dritto / 02 8052242, then at #8 is Massimo Alba / 02 72093420 / for super soft and styley cashmere (m/w). Take the next left, Via del Carmine, and either twirl left into Via Ciovasso to seek the hides at Giòsa (see Adv. Shop.), or keep walking and follow the street right into Piazza del Carmine. Stop first at antique-chic L’Oro dei Farlocchi at #11 / 02860589, then at Santa Maria del Carmine church on the right (to confess your sins after polishing off squisito handmade truffles from Cioccolato Puro / 02 86915731 / behind you), then happy hour sips await at Café Marc Jacobs at #6. Push straight on and left into Via Ponte Vetero to pick up wrist candy at vintage cufflink and costume jeweller Demaldé at #22 / 02 86460428, then cross over to find a dapper stash of stationery that can be personalised at #17 Fabriano / 02 76318754. Retrace and make a right immediately after the Piazza into piccola Via Madonnina, with Crazy Art at #11 on the left stocking antique eclectibilia, plus Diego dalla Palma at #15 for flawless makeovers (see Spa). At the intersection with Via Marco Formentini, look across into Luisa Beccaria’s / 02 863807 / glass windows full of femmy day and cocktail frocks at #1. Exit Luisa right, the street becomes Via San Carpoforo, and pause to rummage through the pre-loved apparel at #6 Il Cameo il Bello del Vintage / 349 2448263. Retrace to Luisa, make a left then right into Via Fiori Chiari for trad and herbal cha peddlers #24 Kusmi Tea / 02 8909 3956; summery sandals n’ clogs at #16 L’Autre Chose / 02 36708738; organic grape and vine-based beauty prods from French brand Caudalie at #14 / 02 36745540; and Robertaebasta at #3 / 02 866805 / on the right has C.20th furny and glass, specialising in Liberty and Art Deco (the main gallery is ahead on the left at #2 / 02 861593). Whistlewetting time? Bar Brera is on the cnr with Via Brera, handy for basic lunches. It’s also popular with the arty kids from L’Accademia di Brera diagonally opp. – you can watch their classes in the studios, in the Pinacoteca di Brera (see Act).

From Bar Brera turn left, and either turn right at Via Pontaccio and left into Piazza San Marco for Super at #1 / 02 65560774 / filled with fashionista brands, or cross Pontaccio, straight into Via Solferino, where on the right you’ll spy ontrend foot candy at #2 Le Solferine / 02 6555352. Next, you’ll meet Via Ancona. On the left, pop a pizzette at Pattini; and on the right is #12 La Stupenderia / 02 65560793 / for sweet kids’ togs. Continue up Via Solferino for Kristina Ti at #18 / 02 653379 / on the right with cute bikinis n’ beachy frockage, while opp. are silk, wool n’ cashmere scarves at Faliero Sarti at #11 / 02 8053223. Breeze on through the square (Largo Treves) for bijoux by daughter and father duo Giolina e Angelo at #22 / 02 653770 / in gold and more. Either exit right and sashay on for Nathalie Jean’s mod statement jewellery at #48 / 02 62086089, or exit Giolina left and take the first left into Via Balzan for Argenteria Dabbene (see Adv. Shop.). Exit right, and you’ll soon meet Via San Marco. Push straight on and the street beomes Via Montebello, with bella Fioraio Bianchi (see Lunch) at #7. Almost time to rest those gams, but first take the next left into Via San Fermo for Oro, Incenso e Mirra at #15 / 02 6554492 / with collectibles and global vintage jewels. Finito, Giorgio!