Greetings,

She's got more secrets than the Pope, and a much better wardrobe, but Roma wasn't built in one day, and you'll need more than a couple to peel back all those gorgeous layers. Step right up, we've picked out all the things we totally love and know you will too. So, all you have to do now is hop into your Alfa, Romeo...

Overview

With the Pantheon in Centro Storico as your centre, north is shopping central Tridente and Via Veneto, to the east is upcomer Monti, south is Ancient Rome, home to the Colosseum and Forum. To the west across the Tiber is atmossy Trastevere, north of which lies the Vatican City, and that's all you really need to know.

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Rome is super-saturated with visitors on all major holidays, particularly religious ones; the best times to visit are Nov & Jan-Feb; Jul-Aug broils, the population flees en masse and the city all but shuts, but at least the streets are relatively crowd free – your call Fiumicino to Centro set fare by taxi: € 48 / 40 mins Ciampino to Centro set fare by taxi: € 30 / 35 mins Taxis drivers were once notorious for adding extras, but now are required to work off a 3 tariff system – € 3-14, € 14-26 and € 27+ Check your change, Romans rarely tip their drivers Handy public transport route planner at atac.roma.it Stillies + cobble streets don't mix, break out the flats Spring: Settimana della Cultura and La Notte dei Musei – culture central / beniculturali.it. Sep/Oct: Roma Europa Art Festival – music, dance and theatre / roma europa.net. Oct/Nov: Festa del Cinema / romacinemafest.it Shops generally open from 10am-7.30pm, although smaller ones take an afternoon pause from 1-4pm, and some close all day Sun and on Mon mornings too Restaurants and services tend to close on Sunday as well, so use this day for museums and activities Always book well ahead for the city's best tables and be sure to reconfirm as reservations often get ‘lost' Service is always included, but add up to 10% anyway All indoor restaurants and bars are non-smoking Bars are legally required to let non-patrons use loos Coffee etiquette: caffè/espresso is a single shot, doppio is double, Americano is a long black. Cappucinos after midday are déclassé. In the summer ask for a Shakerato The int'l dialing code for Italy is +39, Rome's city code is 06, although this prefix is not needed when calling mobiles; for general emergencies dial 113

You will only need the following Italian phrases...

Ciao bella / bello : Hello, gorgeous Buon giorno / Buona sera : Good morning / afternoon Buona notte : Good night / goodbye Per favore / Grazie / Prego : Please / Ta / You're welcome Aoh, ma che sta a fa? : What the *@!# are you doing? (Very useful in traffic while waving arms violently)

Vabbé, anamo...