Via dei Banchi Vecchi & Via Monserrato
Have your cab drop you at the start of Via dei Banchi Vecchi where it hits Corso Vittorio Emanuele. First up on your right at #50a, raid Laura Urbinati / 06 6813 6478 / lauraurbinati.com / for her neat stash of girly beachywear. Shagadelic rusticana resides at #45 Ferretti e Guerrini / 06 6830 7448 / a rough and tumble mish-mash menu of lamps, objets, furny and bric-à-brac. Belt up at #40 Cuoio e Pellami / 06 686 4629 / closed Sat-Sun / with skins from snake to croc, and all manner of buckles offering unending variations from chic to vulgar. Liliana Michilli Anelleria at # 37 / 06 6839 2154 / has shiny gobstopper jewels, and Antichità at #33 / 06 687 5747 / shelves a stash of vintage Italian purses. Thirsty? Try a sly gargle at #14 Il Goccetto (see Wine Bars). Okay, now head right here onto Via delle Carceri and right again onto Via Giulia to the summer rooftop sipper at DOM Hotel (see Accom.), noting nearby is late-night dive bar Jerry Thomas / 06 9684 5937. Cross to antique dealer Faraoni at #137 (see Standout Stores) for beautiful pins and vintage cufflinks, and pick up a tasty suppli (rice ball) from, ahem, Supplizio at #143 (see Rest./Relaxed). Exit left and fork right down Via di Monserrato hyperventilating at Ex-Cartier and Bulgari designer Fabio Salini's atelier at #18 / 06 6830 1172 / fabiosalini.net / a Fort Knox of diva rocks. Next up on your right Pierluigi (see Restaurants/Fashionista) fires up flip-fresh seafood in a bella piazza, complete with a trig little bar for a crafty refresher. Pootling on now, Atelier Gloria Gobbi at #43b / 06 6813 5876 / has a saketo-me stash of deli-cious vintage kimonos. Ok, nip on, and hey poncho, you're in pretty Piazza Farnese. Parched? Fortunatamente, directly over the piazza at #50 is resto and sipsmith Camponeschi (see Bars) for a local ogle and well-earned libation, or cross diagonally over the piazza and nip down little Vicolo del Giglio to find our favourite grapester L'Angolo Divino (see Wine Bars) on the corner of Via dei Balestrari. Bums down and bottoms up! Blississimo!