Coffee & Cake

Caffè Florian. Forget the orchestra, the back bar of this C.18th stalwart is where locals and cluey visitors hang. Piazza S. Marco / SM 58 / 041 5205641 / 9am-midnight / closed Wed Nov-feb / caffeflorian.com

E. Rosa Salva. Squeeze into this perch-only bolthole for the city’s best desserts, plus tramezzini and coffee. Calle Fiubera / SM 951 / 041 5210544 / closed Sun / rosasalva.it

Pasticceria Ballarin. The nougat is king at this shop/bar. Salizada S. Grisostomo / Cannaregio 5794 / 041 5285273

Majer. Flaky pastries and luscious beignets in one shop, a rainbow of gelati opp., and a charming square to pig out in. Campo Giacomo dall’orio / SC 1630 / 041 5240317 / + branches

Caffè Doria. Corner shop + coffee stand = hot choc heaven. Calle dei Fabbri / SM 4578/c / 329 3517367 / also see Viziovirtù (Shop./rialto) for more cocoa transcendence