The Supernationals
After the genderless trend and the success of the design duos, here come the Supernationals. And they’re already changing the fashion scene. These cross-cultural, globetrotting designers travel the world physically, or virtually via social networks, and they draw inspiration from this fluidity to spawn a free, evolved and hybrid aesthetic. But above all they outline a new modus vivendi. Representing an age of great migrations and the surpassing of real and symbolic boundaries, they have many passports, few links with proper nation states, and even fewer with national myths and legends. These Supernationals are post-geographic and liquid. They switch country like switching a T-shirt, because they feel just as at home in the place where they grew up as in the place where they live now. So if nationality doesn’t define their identity and style, what does? Like the “multi-local” writer Taiye Selasi, could it be that after so much travelling around, perhaps they, too, only feel like locals where they carry out their real-life relationships, rituals and restrictions? “I don’t recognise myself in a nationality. I’m too scattered for that,” says Bobby Kolade. “I was born to Nigerian-German parents in Sudan, brought up in Uganda and I’ve lived in Berlin and Paris. But it’s more about the here and now for me. Where am I now? Who am I with? The people around me define my identity. I feed off their energy. Identity is also a lot about self-discovery, growth and change. A lot is about where you’re from, but perhaps more interesting is where you’ve come to.” Kolade’s fashion perfectly reflects the notion of identity as a work in progress. “We’ve used textiles from Uganda or Ethiopia; it feels like the most straightforward thing to do. But I set up my brand in Berlin – which is where nationality did in fact have an impact – and I produce in Königsberg, a small city in Franconia. I attended an international school in Uganda. Most of us left the country afterwards to study abroad. So my German passport defined my destination. I didn’t have much choice. But not having a choice back then has turned out to be a good choice now.” Can emerging brands conquer a wider audience thanks to a “global” ap- proach that mixes different origins and cultures? The answer is yes according to Mario-Luca Carlucci and Peter Strateas, the Australian founders of Strateas Carlucci with Italian and Greek heritage. “Our collections definitely have a European influence, in regards to the tailoring, fabrication and overall aesthetics, however we believe that the Australian lifestyle, relaxed attitude and work ethic also has a strong impact,” explains the duo. “Although our heritage makes up a large portion of who we are as individuals, we’re convinced that, as a brand, our identity extends past this.” Born in Angola and brought up in Europe, Susana Traça also decided to settle far from her homeland to set up her own brand. She now lives and works in Milan, “because it’s home for me, and also a centre in the fashion industry in all ways”. But to survive it was vital to create an international network. And in this regard, she says, “I was very lucky to get involved in the Vogue Talents contest in Dubai. It provided great visibility.” What about her mixed backgrounds? “They’re a blessing, because you don’t fear diversity.” The minds behind the Marios brand – i.e. Mayo Loizou (from Cyprus) and Leszek Chmielewski (from Poland) – also live and work in Italy, but they partly produce in Poland and often travel to Japan. “I was born on a Mediterranean island divided into two parts, Greek and Turkish, and I was also very influenced by the English,” declares Mayo. “Growing up in a country like that gave me a sense of freedom and openness, but also of not belonging. I can see this in my work, as I try to avoid the brand being identified or categorised in just one way”. They have difficulty identifying with a homeland too. “From the moment you start moving, speaking and thinking in different languages, living long experiences outside your native country, it gets very difficult to identify with a nationality,” they explain. Of course, if fashion is becoming increasingly global and virtual, maybe new technologies in the future will render the geographical and physical concept of “Fashion Capitals” obsolete. With the result that the Supernationals will be opting to showcase their collections on the various specialised websites instead of in Paris, Milan and New York. Be prepared.