Designers are looking to Catholicism, Islam, Hinduism and Buddhism. Showing that THE FUTURE OF FASHION IS RELIGION
For decades, Catholicism was the go-to religion for fetishisation and hyper-sexualisation on the international fashion week runways. This, to the point where the concept of glamorous church attire has become synonymous with the work of some of fashion’s most in uential names, as will be displayed in the exhibition “Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination” (at the Met Fifth Avenue, from 10 May to 8 October; metmuseum.org). Whereas late-20th-century conversations regarding religion were largely centered around Christianity, 21st-century globalisation has handed designers the tools to create a dialogue about their personal beliefs. Beliefs previously considered less mainstream in the Western Hemisphere. Hinduism forms a key source of inspiration to Indian designer Masaba Gupta. The New Delhi-based creative refers to her collections as “a fusion of contemporary fashion and elements of Hinduism”. That is, sarees, kurtas and dhoti pants updated with tongue-in-cheek embroidered prints, worn either with stylish denims, or old school as the tradition intended for them to be worn. In keeping with Asia, Chinese designer Renli Su makes Buddhism a common thread across her designs where artistry and commercially viable ready-to-wear collide. In a recent collection, Su used her ethereal-like collection as a platform to tell the story of Chinese patron goddess Lin Moniang. The latter was said to protect seafarers and shermen out at sea. Apart from Buddhism, Christianity was also given a platform across Su’s creations. Islam however has thus far not served as creative fuel to the designer. In recent times, followers of the Islamic faith have stood up amid a circle of fashion’s international players. By taking control of and sharing their narrative, many have succeeded in dismantling much of the negative stereotypes plaguing the religion since 9/11. “My idea of modest fashion is about freedom. Modesty is freedom; you are owning up to your beliefs and your image and your thoughts. For me, modesty is not only related to Islam, but it’s in the heart. Being modest doesn’t mean you’re covered – it must be re ected in your heart and your actions. Your clothing simply mirrors that,” says Arwa Al Banawi, a Saudi Arabia-based designer. Al Banawi – who is praised for her statement blazers as much as she is for her take on the Islamic abaya robe – partnered with Adidas Originals in the nal quarter of 2017. The partnership resulted in the “P.E.” athletics-inspired capsule collection exclusively available in the Middle East. While jumping on the bandwagon of Western sportswear companies catering to the needs of the Arabic world, Nike created its rst sports hijab. Right on time for the 2018 Winter Olympics. The Nike Pro Hijab – a pull-on design made of breathable lightweight polyester – is a rst in the company’s history. Developed in collaboration with a group of female Muslim professional athletes, Nike’s move turned an item previously viewed by some as a symbol of oppression into the latest wardrobe staple in female empowerment.