Jac­que­mus Pa­ris

VOGUE (Italy) - - CULTURE -

Iden­ti­fy­ing Si­mon Porte Jac­que­mus as a de­si­gner who is set to af­fect the land­sca­pe of men­swear might seem like a shot in the dark: af­ter all he will not pre­sent his fir­st men­swear col­lec­tion un­til Ju­ne 25 – shor­tly af­ter this is­sue is pu­bli­shed. But

L’Uo­mo Vo­gue is wil­ling to bet that he will. And if the men’s clo­thes of this 28-yea­rold Fren­ch pro­di­gy ha­ve even a sli­ver of the im­pact of his wo­men­swear, then we’ll win big.

Rai­sed in a small vil­la­ge in the Sou­th of Fran­ce, Jac­que­mus ma­de his fir­st skirt at age 7 and wro­te to Jean Paul Gaultier to ap­ply for a job as a sty­li­st at age 12. He mo­ved to Pa­ris for fa­shion school at 19, but af­ter the sud­den death of his mo­ther, Va­le­rie, he de­ci­ded to sei­ze the day, drop out of school and start his label – ini­tial­ly wor­king shif­ts on the shop floor at Com­me des Ga­rçons to stay sol­vent.

His se­xy, ir­re­ve­rent, no­stal­gic wo­men­swear col­lec­tions of­ten chan­nel the me­mo­ry of his mo­ther – who­se sur­na­me his col­lec­tion is na­med af­ter – and pay ho­ma­ge to his de­si­gn idol Ch­ri­stian La­croix. It’s a com­bi­na­tion that has pro­ved cat­nip to young fe­ma­le con­su­mers.

Jac­que­mus re­vels in con­ven­tio­nal, ro­man­tic quir­ki­ness – his shoes co­me with mi­smat­ched heels and his jac­ke­ts and dres­ses with over­si­zed but­tons – and it will be in­te­re­sting to see to what ex­tent he trans­la­tes tho­se qui­xo­tic tics when ma­king his men­swear de­but this sum­mer.

Mark Hol­ga­te, US Vo­gue Fa­shion News Di­rec­tor and long ti­me Jac­que­mus ob­ser­ver, says:“Si­mon is a bub­bling mix of charm, sin­gle-min­ded­ness, play­ful­ness and de­ter­mi­na­tion – and he’s kind of ec­cen­tric too. How it’s going to play out in the men­swear I ha­ve no idea, but it will be fa­sci­na­ting to see. He’s smart about the bu­si­ness, but he’s not stra­te­gi­cal­ly cy­ni­cal – he’s co­ming in­to men­swear be­cau­se he has a pas­sion to do it. I think he real­ly ge­ts what it means to be a de­si­gner in 2018, as well as what it means to be Fren­ch.”

And what does it mean to be Fren­ch? Cer­tain­ly, in men­swear, it ha­sn’t meant cool – real­ly cool – ar­gua­bly sin­ce He­di Sli­ma­ne’s Dior Hom­me. If anyo­ne is going to re­set that, it is going to be Jac­que­mus.

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