Oli­vier Rou­steing on KRIS VAN AS­SCHE for BER­LU­TI

VOGUE (Italy) - - CULTURE -

I’m real­ly hap­py for Kris. And I think this is a fa­sci­na­ting mo­ment for men­swear. For ma­ny years in fa­shion we real­ly fo­cu­sed on wo­men­swear and men­swear was slee­ping. I can tell you that when I star­ted he­re at Bal­main the way the bu­si­ness per­cei­ved men­swear was com­ple­te­ly dif fe­rent. Now al l that is chan­ging fast. Peo­ple ha­ve rea­li­sed it is a hu­ge bu­si­ness. This in­tro­duc­tion of ta­len­ted up­co­ming de­si­gners or re­de­ploy­ment of esta­bli­shed de­si­gners to new hou­ses r ef lec­ts t hat. They a l l h ave r eal­ly d iver­se mes­sa­ges a nd s peak t o dif fe­rent gen­res of t aste and sty­le.

At Dior Hom­me what Kris did was real­ly in­te­re­sting be­cau­se he was mi­xing two ele­men­ts. He knew the­re was a he­ri­ta­ge of tai­lo­ring, top-le­vel glo­bal t ai lo­ring­tha­ty­ou­can fit­to an in­ter­na­ti on al­gro up of­so­phis tic ate dc usto mers.An­dat­th esa­me tim eh ewas al so­thin­king ab ou­ty­ou­th,and so­me tim es street­wear, and f il­te­ring it th­rou­gh the pro­gres­si­ve phi­lo­so­phy of his Ant­werp back­ground. And I think that mix is what ma­de Dior Hom­me so­me­thing ve­ry mu­ch par­ti­cu­lar to Kris: h is own sto­ry. I’ve kno­wn Kris for about six years. He is ve­ry in­te­re­sting as a cha­rac­ter. LVMH has de­mon­stra­ted po­si­ti­vi­ty, loyal­ty and a f ai­th i n his work by ta­king him to Ber­lu­ti, a hou­se with a beau­ti­ful he­ri­ta­ge. I’m cer­tain that he is going to ar­ti­cu­la­te his mix of tai­lo­ring and you­th cul­tu­re the­re in a fa­sci­na­ting way. An­dyo use et hat­trustf rom LVMH in itsc on ti­nuing re la­ti on­shi­p­wi­thKim too. It is good to see a com­pa­ny tru­sting its de­si­gners, and asking them to evol­ve their me­tier in a new way at a new hou­se. All of the f ive de­si­gners you are tal­king about will bring a new fan ba­se to their hou­ses, and that will al­so h ave anint ere stin­gef­fec­ton­the per cept io noft ho se hou­ses.

Ano­ther thing that is chan­ging is that ma­ny hou­ses are loo­king for mo­re co­he­ren­ce bet­ween their men­swear and their wo­men­swear. As bar­riers break do­wn in so­cie­ty and ro­les are no lon­ger def ined as being on­ly for men, or on­ly for wo­men, fa­shion is ref lec­ting that on the ru­n­way too. That’s be­cau­se brands a re buil­ding worlds. As I said, t his i s real­ly an i mpor­tant mo­ment for men­swear - and I’m not at a l l sur­pri­sed that Kris i s r ight at the heart of it.

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