Magliano
Italy
Made in Italy? Say those three words in any conversation about fashion, and it’s almost a certainty that what you’re referring to is this nation’s celebrated wellspring of world-beating clothes, shoes and accessory manufacturers.
And yet there’s much more to Made in Italy than mere clothes. Italian fashion is not solely an industrial product of its artisans; it is also an aesthetic product of Italy’s culture, character and stereotypes. Luca Magliano, 31, is a conceptual, funny, pencil-moustached and razor-smart young menswear designer who extends the notion of Made in Italy to its utmost to examine the very fabric of Italian masculinity.
Founded in 2016 with the support of Ter et Bantine’s Manuela Arcari – for whom Magliano also works – his eponymous label uses Made in Italy expertise to ironically analyse Made in Italy macho tribes and tropes. For S/S 19 his partially
poliziotteschi- inspired collection is shot as a series of almost parodic characters – “The Killer”, “The Bully”, “Latin Lover” – as well as some much more specific looks that include “Miami:The Assassination of a White Shirt”.
Magliano explains: “There’s always a high element of irony. It’s a dreamy view of an Italy that still exists, and which is also a very personal, strong idea of Italy that I have in my heart. Here we’re interpreting an Italian guy from the countryside who acts like he’s in Miami, so in a way of course the reference is Gianni Versace.”
Magliano won Who is on Next? in 2017 before showing his A/W 18-19 collection this January in Pitti’s Italics slot. Titled “A Man in Love”, it focused on soft-shouldered tailoring and soft-hearted visions of the men wearing it. “Magliano is a brand that investigates classics, from tailoring – which is very important – to archetypal clothing and other masculine uniforms. Our mission is to produce clothing following the organic Made in Italy process with a rough, DIY spirit in the punk tradition. The construction of our clothing must consider our history but at the same time it has to be rough and it has to be wild.”