Front 2018 di­vi­so 20, di Ale­xan­dra Van Hout­te e Mar­gaux Wa­rin, fo­to di Hen­ri­que Gen­dre

VOGUE (Italy) - - SOMMARIO - — di ALE­XAN­DRA VAN HOUT­TE e MAR­GAUX WA­RIN* fo­to di HEN­RI­QUE GEN­DRE

È pos­si­bi­le leg­ge­re la mo­da at­tra­ver­so i Big Da­ta? Ci pro­va un mo­to­re di ri­cer­ca spe­cia­liz­za­to, cui ab­bia­mo chie­sto di rac­con­ta­re l’an­no ap­pe­na tra­scor­so in ven­ti pun­ti: con mol­te sor­pre­se.

n. 1

Le sfi­la­te di prêt-à-por­ter don­na tra Pa­ri­gi, Lon­dra, Mi­la­no e New York (quat­tro sta­gio­ni: Pre/Fall 2018, Au­tun­no/In­ver­no 2018-19, Re­sort 2019 e Pri­ma­ve­ra/Esta­te 2019) so­no sta­te in to­ta­le 709.

n. 2

28.853 i look pre­sen­ta­ti.

n. 3

La cit­tà che ha ge­ne­ra­to più vi­sua­liz­za­zio­ni (in ter­mi­ni di ricerche) è Pa­ri­gi con gli show di Louis Vuit­ton, Chloé e Saint Lau­rent in te­sta, se­gui­ta a ruo­ta da Lon­dra (che in pas­sa­to era ul­ti­ma) gra­zie al­la pri­ma sfi­la­ta di Ric­car­do Ti­sci in ve­ste di di­ret­to­re crea­ti­vo Bur­ber­ry, che ha at­ti­ra­to il 16,86% del traf­fi­co to­ta­le con la sfi­la­ta P/E 2019, con­tro il 3,5% dell’A/I 2018-19. Le sfi­la­te più vi­sua­liz­za­te per la Mi­la­no fa­shion week P/E 19 so­no sta­te quel­le di Fen­di, Dol­ce&Gab­ba­na e Al­ber­ta Fer­ret­ti.

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Dal gen­na­io 2018, la mo­da si è mos­sa da si­lhouet­te di ta­glio ma­schi­le over­si­ze (l’1,17% del to­ta­le dei look era as­so­cia­to al tag “ma­schi­le”) a look più fem­mi­ni­li ma co­mun­que for­ti.

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Il tag “bold co­lours” è di­ven­ta­to più po­po­la­re: dal 161° po­sto in ter­mi­ni di traf­fi­co ge­ne­ra­to nell’A/I 2018-19, è sa­li­to al 3° po­sto nel­la P/E 2019.

n. 6

Il bla­zer ne­ro, i pan­ta­lo­ni da ci­cli­sta e l’abi­to leo­par­da­to so­no le prin­ci­pa­li ten­den­ze per la P/E 2019 a li­vel­lo di traf­fi­co on­li­ne e strut­tu­ra del­la col­le­zio­ne.

n. 7

Il lo­go del brand era pre­sen­te in 93 col­le­zio­ni P/E 2019 (tra cui Chloé, Cha­nel, Bur­ber­ry, Valentino che sfrut­ta­no an­co­ra que­sta ten­den­za) ri­spet­to al­le 107 dell’A/I 201819. Il ca­lo del­la vi­si­bi­li­tà dei lo­ghi è ini­zia­to in mo­do gra­dua­le con le 40 sfi­la­te del­le col­le­zio­ni Re­sort 2019, do­ve mar­chi co­me Ba­len­cia­ga si so­no al­lon­ta­na­ti dall’au­ra di stree­tsty­le che ave­va­no adot­ta­to in pre­ce­den­za.

n. 8

La sfi­la­ta Louis Vuit­ton Re­sort al­la Fon­da­tion Maeght è sta­ta la più cer­ca­ta tra le pre­sen­ta­zio­ni Re­sort 2018 (+2,721% del traf­fi­co nel gior­no del­lo show). Quel­la di Guc­ci, in­ve­ce, è la sfi­la­ta che ha ge­ne­ra­to più traf­fi­co sia per la P/E 2019 (+3,683%) sia per l’A/I 2018-19 (+2,708%).

n. 9

La pri­ma sfi­la­ta P/E 2019 di Vir­gil Abloh per Louis Vuit­ton ha fat­to se­gna­re una cre­sci­ta del 633% ri­spet­to al nor­ma­le traf­fi­co del mar­chio.

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La pri­ma sfi­la­ta di Kim Jo­nes per Dior Hom­me, P/E 2019, ha fat­to se­gna­re una cre­sci­ta del 284% del traf­fi­co.

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La pri­ma sfi­la­ta di He­di Sli­ma­ne per Ce­li­ne (P/E 2019) ha ge­ne­ra­to un au­men­to dell’837% del­le ricerche ri­spet­to all’ul­ti­ma di Phoe­be Phi­lo per il mar­chio (P/E 2018).

n. 12

Le 3 mo­del­le che han­no sfi­la­to di più nel 2018 so­no:

Yoon Young Bae – 91 vol­te (al 5° po­sto del­le ricerche) Adut Ake­ch – 87 vol­te (al 19° po­sto del­le ricerche) Fran Sum­mers – 86 vol­te (al 6° po­sto del­le ricerche)

Nel­la so­la P/E 2019 quel­la che ha sfi­la­to di più (52 vol­te, 22° po­sto del­le ricerche) è sta­ta Rebecca Leigh Longendyke, que­sto me­se sul­la co­ver di Vo­gue Ita­lia.

n. 13

Le 10 mo­del­le più cer­ca­te del 2018 (su un to­ta­le di 485 no­mi) so­no: Vit­to­ria Ce­ret­ti, Ca­mil­le Hu­rel, Ya­smin Wi­j­nal­dum, Ca­ra Tay­lor, Yoon Young Bae, Fran Sum­mers, So­ra Choi, Lu­na Bi­jl, Jes­sie Bloe­men­daal e Ki­ki Wil­lems.

In ca­lo le ricerche de­di­ca­te al­le “ce­le­bri­ty mo­del” Ka­ia Ger­ber, 27° (-43% del­le ricerche ri­spet­to al­le 10 prin­ci­pa­li ricerche di mo­del­le), Gi­gi Ha­did, 32° (-46%), Ken­dall Jen­ner, 222° (-85%), Bel­la Ha­did, 38° (-50%).

La top per­for­mer del­la ca­te­go­ria, Vit­to­ria Ce­ret­ti (che ha sfi­la­to 63 vol­te), ge­ne­ra il 711% di traf­fi­co in più ri­spet­to a Ken­dall Jen­ner, il 127% in più ri­spet­to a Gi­gi Ha­did e il 113,3% in più ri­spet­to a Ka­ia Ger­ber.

n. 14

La di­ver­si­tà è sta­ta la chia­ve dei ca­sting per le sfi­la­te del 2018, an­che in re­la­zio­ne all’età del­le mo­del­le: sul­le pas­se­rel­le dei prin­ci­pa­li mar­chi si so­no vi­ste mol­te over 30.

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Le sfi­la­te che han­no in­se­ri­to più mo­del­le ul­tra­tren­ten­ni so­no: Ver­sa­ce, Bur­ber­ry, Sal­va­to­re Fer­ra­ga­mo, Proen­za Schou­ler, Cal­vin Klein, Sies Ma­r­jan.

n. 16

Stel­la Ten­nant ha aper­to la sfi­la­ta Vic­to­ria Bec­kham P/E 2019, Kri­sten McMe­na­my la sfi­la­ta Valentino, Fre­ja Be­ha quel­la di Ver­sa­ce, chiu­sa poi da Sha­lom Har­low. Na­ta­lia Vo­dia­no­va ha aper­to la sfi­la­ta Ver­sa­ce A/I 2018-19 e Ra­quel Zim­mer­mann l’ha chiu­sa.

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Le due sfi­la­te con più vol­ti nuo­vi so­no sta­te quel­la di Bur­ber­ry P/E 2019 con 11 nuo­ve mo­del­le che han­no sfi­la­to in esclu­si­va (Bru­na Di, Ro­zan­ne Ver­duin, My­riam Tran, Liz Ken­ne­dy, Flo­ren­ce Cla­p­cott, Deir­dre Fi­rin­ne, Brit­ney Van Der Steen, Ve­re­na Kreiml, Ali­sa Ra­jew­ska­ja, Ce­ci­lia Sund­ström, El­la Ho­pe Mer­ry­wea­ther) e Pra­da P/E 2019, sem­pre con 11 nuo­ve mo­del­le (Kri­sten Pai­ge, Til­da Jöns­son, Ilo­na De­smet, Ef­ta­gi­ne Fe­vi­lien, Sa­ra Kem­per, Mai­ke In­ga, Nik­ki Tis­sen, Li­cett Mo­ril­lo, Britt En­sink, Ju­dy Ki­nu­thia, Jo­se­fi­ne Lyn­de­rup).

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Le set­te pa­ro­le chia­ve che ri­spet­to all'an­no pre­ce­den­te han­no re­gi­stra­to l’au­men­to mag­gio­re in ter­mi­ni di ricerche: spal­le in evi­den­za ·························································· (+19.957%) dé­gra­dé/tie-dye ····························································· (+18.867%) mi­ni ··················································································· (+18.109%) bo­he­mien ··········································································· (+17.195%) de­nim sco­lo­ri­to ···························································· (+7.305,9%) re­te ·················································································· (+6.304,8%) abi­ti sar­to­ria­li co­lo­ra­ti ··············································· (+6.191,9%)

Que­ste pa­ro­le chia­ve han­no un ri­scon­tro nel­le sfi­la­te più im­por­tan­ti tra cui Ch­ri­stian Dior, Louis Vuit­ton, Ce­li­ne, Chloé, Pa­co Ra­ban­ne e Cha­nel. I pri­mi cin­que mar­chi che so­no ri­ma­sti co­stan­ti ne­gli ul­ti­mi no­ve me­si co­me nu­me­ro di ricerche di­ret­te o svol­te at­tra­ver­so il no­me di uno sti­li­sta o un tag so­no: Guc­ci ··································· (quo­ta di traf­fi­co sul to­ta­le: 2,4%) Louis Vuit­ton ···················· (quo­ta di traf­fi­co sul to­ta­le: 2,2%) Ch­ri­stian Dior ·················· (quo­ta di traf­fi­co sul to­ta­le: 2,0%) Cha­nel ·································· (quo­ta di traf­fi­co sul to­ta­le: 1,9%) Chloé ···································· (quo­ta di traf­fi­co sul to­ta­le: 1,8%)

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Le pa­ro­le chia­ve più cer­ca­te dell’an­no so­no:

flo­rea­le ························································································ (1,2%) abi­to ····························································································· (1,2%)

ma­glia ························································································ (1,0%) ri­ghe ··························································································· (1,0%)

stam­pa ························································································ (1,0%) de­nim ························································································· (1,0%) qua­dri ······················································································· (0,9%) sport ··························································································· (0,9%)

pa­stel­lo-sor­bet­to ···································································· (0,9%) ro­sa ···························································································· (0,7%) Ri­sul­ta­ti ri­le­va­ti su Tag­walk da gen­na­io a no­vem­bre 2018 con un to­ta­le di 235.000 vi­si­ta­to­ri uni­ci e 600.000 ses­sio­ni dall’88% di pro­fi­li bu­si­ness to bu­si­ness.•

*Ale­xan­dra Van Hout­te è fon­da­tri­ce e Ceo di Tag­walk, mo­to­re di ri­cer­ca che ge­ne­ra da­ti obiet­ti­vi non pre­ve­den­do pub­bli­ci­tà a pa­ga­men­to (se non per lo street sty­le); Mar­gaux Wa­rin è Head of fa­shion di Tag­walk. DE­NIM SCO­LO­RI­TO

Da si­ni­stra. Tu­ta di de­nim or­ga­ni­co STEL­LA MCCARTNEY; san­da­li di vi­tel­lo con suo­la di gom­ma AGL; cal­ze THE SOCK MAN. Ca­mi­cia di co­to­ne XACUS; pan­ta­lo­ni di de­nim GUESS JEANS; sti­va­let­ti di pel­le TABITHA SIM­MONS. Giac­ca di de­nim, top, gon­na di tes­su­to tec­ni­co me­tal­liz­za­to e sti­va­li di pel­le: tut­to ISABEL MARANT. T-shirt di mi­sto la­na, giac­ca di de­nim le­ga­ta in vi­ta GUESS JEANS; pan­ta­lo­ni di li­no a pal­lon­ci­no e snea­kers a sti­va­le di me­sh e nap­pa EM­PO­RIO ARMANI. Mo­dels: An­niek Ver­fail­le @ One Ma­na­ge­ment, Cé­li­ne Bou­ly @ Su­pre­me, Til­da Jöns­son @ Fu­sion, Elien Swa­lens @ Fu­sion, Sa­ha­ra Lin @ Eli­te. Sty­ling Re­na­ta Cor­rea. Ma­ke-up Ma­riel Bar­re­ra for Marc Ja­cobs Beau­ty @ The Wall Group. Hair Pa­squa­le Fer­ran­te @ The Wall Group. Set de­si­gner João Ar­pi. Pro­duc­tion Agp­nyc. On set Lu­cia­na Cur­tis. Re­tou­ching Bru­no Re­zen­de.

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