IS PARIS THE ETERNAL CAPITAL OF FASHION?
“With the passing of Karl Lagerfeld we have lost a creative genius who helped to make Paris the fashion capital of the world,” declared Bernard Arnault on 19 February, the day of the designer’s death. It was a fitting tribute to the man who made this city the epicentre of his creative life. And who for more than 35 years gave Chanel incredible international influence – largely thanks to the extraordinary presentations of its collections under the glass roof of the Grand Palais.
It was in France that this German genius chose to apply his immense talent, revealing himself over time to be one of the most prestigious ambassadors of chic, culture and the particular spirit of this country. Having become the most famous fashion designer on the planet, he was also a magnificent influencer of the digital era, drawing in the entire world’s youth,whose eyes, thanks to him, invariably turned to Paris.This city has woven an intimate relationship with fashion.The greatest fashion houses and the titans of world luxury were born here, and with them brands that rapidly became far more than domestic names. With labels as powerful as Dior, Hermès, Chanel, Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton, France could not have dreamed of more efficient mediators for its industry, extending the aura around the world.
Indeed, when they present their collections, these maisons skilfully borrow from iconic and impressive venues both in terms of image and attractiveness. The Louvre, the Eiffel Tower, the Panthéon, Les Invalides and the Place de la Concorde are unquestionably grandiose sets with no equivalent. But leaving aside the strength of its shows, their economic impact and their sheer number (in February 2019 there were an impressive 76 prêt-à-porter shows in 9 days), France’s fashion week is famously also the most international, with half the shows being staged by foreign brands. Haute couture, a French specificity par excellence, is equally important, as it too reveals a growing internationalisation through its corresponding exponents and guests.
That said, positive and ingenious mutations are under way in every stronghold of fashion. Real British, Italian and American initiatives have emerged in the fields of recycling, new technologies and education, to name a few. Also proving to be innovative in these areas, Paris is benefiting from a climate that is once again favourable, albeit fragile by nature, but driven by the dynamic success of the irreplaceable luxury of Made in France. The strength of local brands and groups is now joined by a very active policy of selectivity and innovation (fashion tech and sustainable development), alongside the preservation of crafts and the transmission of savoir faire.Together, these attributes comprise many objective reasons to propose that the City of Light can continue to widen the gap.
However, in my eyes this is not the question of a battle – let alone a war – but above all of a success that can offer inspiration to all. Everyone can call upon this virtuous circle, not only for the recognition and favourable development of this major industry, but also for the preservation of know-how for the future of the creators and their creations. And this is true for all those who love fashion – whether they be the actors or the spectators.