VOGUE (Italy)

PRADA PRINT: EVERYBODY SHIRTS SOME TIMES

- By Antonio Privitera

Following its hometown debut in Milan, where Prada’s masculine “Made to Measure” ser vice fir st allowed customers to take inspiratio­n directly from the house’s histor ical archives, this innovative initiative is taking to the r oad. It will tra vel fir st to Taiwan (between April 24 and April 28) and then K uala Lumpur (from April 30 until May 1). Its USP is this: a Prada men’s shirt can be or dered based not just upon the client’s specific measuremen­ts, but by allowing him to choose the v arious pr ints as well. There are 16 available pr ints – all iconic master pieces from the Italian brand – that can be mix ed and matched. One par ticular half-and-half match pair s the stylised flames from S/S 2012 in the same shir t with sur realist lipstick pr ints, presented for S/S 20 00, seemingly as b ullets. Then there are the more recurrent geometr ic pr ints that have become the ar chetype and greatest Prada-enunciated expression of what is con ventionall­y considered “ugly”. From left to r ight, these shir ts seem to leap fr om one season to the next. Take, for example, the banana pr ints of S/S 2011, liberally inspired by the jazz scene in the early 20th centur y and an obscure tr ibute to Josephine Baker, which lead into r ed roses, a sarcastic metaphor for a sickly s weet romanticis­m. This is a w ay for f ashion to break down clichés and under mine rhetor ic. Glamour can be exquisitel­y ir onic and Machiavell­ian when symbolism is twisted to offer up a cer tain socio-political point of vie w. Thus, the comics-inspired pr ints from the recent S/S 2018 season, now offered in monochrome, take on the moder n conflict between the real and virtual, while neon pink Hawaiian pr ints, seeming fr ivolities from S/S 2014, are paired with exotic paradise pr ints ready to tur n into apocalypti­c scenes of w ar, implicitly referencin­g moments of P acific rim conflict like Pearl Harbor or the Vietnam War. This game of oxymorons can be found in the pair ing of diverging pr ints, which harmonious­ly coexist in the same shir t, concealing symbols in coded messages that r epresent eter nally conflictin­g emotions.

 ??  ?? Above: a shirt from Prada’s new Made To Measure i nitiative.
Above: a shirt from Prada’s new Made To Measure i nitiative.

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