VOGUE (Italy)

MARINE SERRE

- F.B.

Hybridity and transforma­tion are two terms that are very dear to Marine Serre. “I mix the comfort and practicali­ty of sportswear with constructe­d feminine shapes that are typical of couture. I also like to play with crossovers between objects, like the gymnastic ball that I transmuted into a bag,” states the French creative who won the LVMH Prize in 2017 and has seduced stars such as Beyoncé and Kendall Jenner. Alongside the crescent moon, which instantly became a shorthand for her eponymous brand, Serre’s signatures include “the tight second-skin jersey used in catsuits, tops or leggings, and the moire fabric – meant to cover furniture or walls in 18th-century France – employed in tailored pieces”. This label of “futurewear” – as her team calls it – is divided into four lines, with the Green one dedicated to upcycling: “Taking second-hand products and turning them into garments isn’t new. We aim to use end-of-cycle materials in clothes that are affordable and really distribute­d to stores.” Serre’s collection­s have often been described as politicall­y inclined since they’ve been inspired by issues like climate change and terrorist attacks in Europe. “What is political? It’s everything that hasn’t been figured out yet, or which we thought we’d figured out but is called into question again,” explains the womenswear designer who has created men’s looks as well. “The majority of politician­s aren’t political like that today, while fashion has become more political than politics itself.”

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