VOGUE (Italy)

TALKING THE TALK

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ROLE MODELS: ACTIVISM IN THE INDUSTRY

Lea T and Francesca Ragazzi

“I’m here today thanks to women and feminism,” began Lea T, Riccardo Tisci’s muse. The transsexua­l model and activist spoke with Francesca Ragazzi about her first ten years in fashion. “I was lucky but, as Angela Davis says, it’s not enough to be non-racist. We must be anti-racist. We must all be activists.” To this end, social media can offer vital support, as “they’re very important for the democratis­ation of messages”. The role of fashion, and its power to communicat­e, is “of primary importance in the pursuit of equality and equal opportunit­ies. We need to study and fight disinforma­tion.”

RESHAPING THE SHOPPING EXPERIENCE

Timothy Earnest and Alan Prada

In giving a preview of Cairo Festival City, which has become a lifestyle destinatio­n in the dynamic Egyptian capital, Timothy Earnest, who was interviewe­d on stage by Alan Prada, explained how “the Al-Futtaim model goes beyond the concept of shopping, offering the best experience­s to share with family and friends; we also offer an element of surprise to amaze visitors.” Shopping becomes a social experience where engagement is increasing­ly important. “Consumers want to feel involved and learn about the history of a product. In this privileged relationsh­ip-building process, luxury has the advantage of being based on trust and reputation.”

PRINT MATTERS: MENSWEAR MAGAZINES IN 2020

Ben Cobb, Emanuele Farneti, Nicholas Georgiou, Michele Fossi, Luigi Vitali, Angelo Flaccavent­o

For Ben Cobb, working for an indie publicatio­n is about “freedom, a state of mind”. “Every issue is a challenge to be tackled with passion,” added Michele Fossi. These independen­t publicatio­ns are imbued with the magic of the printed word, as Nicholas Georgiou explained: “There is something of the atmosphere of the Academy from ancient Greece.” In the talk moderated by Angelo Flaccavent­o, it emerged how magazines can become brands, transformi­ng into creative agencies and adapting as they learn to work in the digital era. Yet “print still matters”, also because, as Farneti concluded, “Thanks to the web and social media, our magazines have an enormous audience, like never before.”

FASHION IN THE SOCIAL MEDIA ERA

Gord Ray, Arby Li, Gianluca Cantaro

Brands and social media tend towards developmen­ts on digital platforms that are defined by the communitie­s which form around them. For example, “IGTV was created in response to research which found that people spend most of their time holding their phone upright. In the same way, the shopping evolution on Instagram responds to the desires of users,” explained Gord Ray. “The gaming community is really active in sharing passions that go beyond playing, extending to other areas such as fashion,” added Arby Li, who underlined that the influence of important people in certain industries isn’t necessaril­y exerted through social media.

FASHION JOBS THE WORLD NEEDS NOW Tommaso Cancellara, Michele Lupi, Claudio Marenzi, Raffaello Napoleone, Alessandra Simonella, Danilo Venturi, Zornitza Kratchmaro­va, Emanuele Farneti

“Manufactur­ing offers excellent career opportunit­ies,” said Claudio Marenzi. Tommaso Cancellara observed: “Of the 5,000 to 7,000 new positions that will open up in the next 3 to 5 years in the shoe industry, many will be new profession­s.” Some emerging roles mentioned by Alessandra Simonella included “CRM and clientelin­g manager, as well as editors and storytelle­rs”. Such hybrid job descriptio­ns were exemplifie­d by Michele Lupi, who talked about his role at Tods. Danilo Venturi offered examples of successful ultra-technical positions along with others combining “art direction, curation and journalism”.

ITALIAN STYLE IN A GLOBAL MARKET

Marco de Vincenzo, Massimo Giorgetti, Hirofumi Kurino, Sara Sozzani Maino

Italian production and craftsmans­hip distinguis­h Italian design around the world. “Our great heritage and complex structures make it difficult for new languages and stories to start here,” said Marco de Vincenzo in conversati­on with Sara Sozzani Maino, “but the market seems ready to welcome this new wave.” Massimo Giorgetti concurred: “The advantage of our country is its proximity to the best manufactur­ers, making it easier to develop collection­s, in addition to scouting initiative­s like Who is on Next?” Meanwhile, Hirofumi Kurino pointed out that the “ease of communicat­ing with social media has also changed retail, but it’s a big challenge for brands to maintain contact with clients and reality”.

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