VOGUE (Italy)

DOLCE & GABBANA’S BEAUTIFUL MOVEMENT

By taking a slow and considered approach to the world of watches the designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have developed the house’s expertise to an impressive level.

- By Micol Bozino Resmini

“I’ve always collected watches.All of the pieces I have are fascinatin­g and striking, not just because of their beauty, but also because they are the result of hours of work and dedication by master craftspeop­le who are still carrying forward the watchmakin­g tradition today,” says Domenico Dolce. He goes on to explain that Dolce & Gabbana watches are not conceived with any passing trends in mind, but rather with a genuine passion that has seen this product segment grow over time. It started in 2012 when the first of the “everyday” models were launched, continuing on to January 2017 when the first four men’s haute-horlogerie models were presented at the Alta Moda fashion shows.

“We tiptoed into this industry knowing it wouldn’t be easy,” says Dolce. “The work of researchin­g watches was long and hard, but it was worth it.We understood it was important not to rush.We had to take our time to think before acting.” Stefano Gabbana has a similar opinion.“The world of watches represents an exciting challenge,” he says.“Every goal that we’ve achieved has taught us that there’s always more to learn.”

Today, Dolce & Gabbana’s Manifattur­a Italiana line serves as a virtual bridge between the company’s simplest and higher-end timepieces.This new collection features six models, each in a limited edition of 13 pieces fitted with the brand’s first proprietar­y mechanical movement.

The collection is founded on the principle of uniting the finest artisans in the field. For example, the complex engraving on the cases was done by hand in Italy, and the movement was created in collaborat­ion with Pierre-Laurent Favre’s MHC Manufactur­e Hautes Complicati­ons in Geneva. To develop this movement, the master watchmaker had to take the brand’s specific requests into considerat­ion: the watch had to have limited dimensions (the calibre is 30.5 millimetre­s in diameter and 4 millimetre­s in height), have a micro rotor and a considerab­le power reserve (it guarantees 58 hours when fully wound). In the future, this movement could support a series of functions such as a stopwatch, moonphase display and GMT feature.

The result is the DG 01 calibre, which currently comes in two versions.There’s the DG 01.01, Dolce & Gabbana’s first 12-hour movement, which is finely decorated and assembled by hand by master watchmaker­s in Geneva.Then there’s the DG 01.02, which has the same features as the 01.01 but with a dial divided into 24 hours, inspired by the so-called hora italica method of telling time.This technique became popular in the 14th century, with the day divided into 24 hours of equal length starting at sunset.

“Our creative fires need to be constantly stoked,” explains Gabbana. “For us, it’s fundamenta­l to have strong reference points, and Italy, with all its beauty, is an immense source of inspiratio­n.”

“We love our country and its artisan heritage,” says Dolce.“Each of the six models in the Manifattur­a Italiana collection is dedicated to the magnificen­ce of our cities of art, an expression of the value of handmade objects and Italian manufactur­ing, combined with the experience of the best in Swiss watchmakin­g tradition.”

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