VOGUE (Italy)

MANUEL MANUFACTUR­ES (Mariel Manuel) SWITZERLAN­D/USA

- manuelmanu­factures.com @manuel_manufactur­es

“When I work on the material it’s like I’m painting, composing little by little, dropping a few sequins and pinning the fabric, as the embroidere­rs follow me with their hooks. I work with two artisans, Sarjan and Sekar, who come from a small village outside of Chennai, India. They mainly use the very traditiona­l Indian embroidery technique of aari, making long rectangles and bands which I then drape on dolls to compose my pieces.”

“In my Paris atelier I have an extensive material library of fabrics and scraps. Fabric hunting is one of my favourite things in the world. I use silks from Chennai, jerseys, lace and wools from deadstock in the Sentier area of Paris, factory outlet laces from St. Gallen, Switzerlan­d, and any treasures found during my travels.”

“EVERY PIECE IS MADE AS ONE OF A KIND. I DON’T USE PATTERNS OR FOLLOW THE LINES. INSTEAD, I FREE-DRAPE EVERYTHING, AND ALL THE ITEMS COME ALIVE IN THE WAY I FEEL THEY SHOULD AT THAT PARTICULAR MOMENT.”

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