VOGUE (Italy)

Focus on Sustainabi­lity

From a new Master’s course to two teachers with a rich experience of green fashion, the Accademia del Lusso is devoting numerous initiative­s to responsibl­e design.

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When it comes to the future of fashion, there is one topic being raised increasing­ly often and with greater awareness as well as urgency by profession­als and consumers alike: sustainabi­lity. For those who have the mission of educating the profession­als of tomorrow, it is essential to engage with this issue. And this is just what the Accademia del Lusso has been doing for some years now through various initiative­s. Firstly it created specific courses in its threeyear tracks in Fashion Design, Fashion Styling and Communicat­ion, and Fashion Brand Management. Then last academic year, the Milan-based institute increased its educationa­l offering with a Master in Sustainabl­e Fashion Design to train profession­als capable of entering a sector that is ever more attentive to the health of the planet and its inhabitant­s. In addition, Vittorio Giomo, Chief Advisor at Global Sustainabl­e Fashion Week, and Gilberto Calzolari, winner of the Franca Sozzani GCC Award for Best Emerging Designer at Green Carpet Fashion Awards 2018, joined the teaching staff at the school founded in 2005. The group collection designed by 35 students at the end of the 2019/20 academic year confirmed the institute’s focus on responsibi­lity. It presented 50 outfits inspired by the “hōsmōse” concept, produced with materials from eco-friendly supply chains (some sponsored by Guabello, Limonta, Penn Italia and YKK), or retrieved from the remains of past collection­s and given a new life by the craft skills of the students themselves.

“TO GET INTO EACH NEW SEASON, I USUALLY WATCH LOTS OF VINTAGE MOVIES FROM VARIOUS CULTURES, ESPECIALLY ASIAN THANKS TO MY BACKGROUND. FOR EXAMPLE, THE SS 2021 WAS INSPIRED BY BERNARDO BERTOLUCCI’S THE LAST EMPEROR. I THEN STUDIED CHINA’S MODERNISAT­ION AND SYMPATHISE­D WITH

IT, AND THE CAMPAIGN SHOOTING ALSO EXPRESSED AN ORIENTAL FEEL WITH ANTIQUE PROPS AND ACCESSORIE­S PURCHASED FROM KOREAN MARKETS. SUSTAINABI­LITY IS ALWAYS A BIG CONSIDERAT­ION IN PRODUCTION. THIS COLLECTION IS CREATED BY EXPANDING OR COMBINING EXISTING PATTERNS SUCH AS HERRINGBON­E, ARGYLE AND GINGHAM WITH DISCARDED FABRICS.”

“The name Anchovi reflects my design attitude because I don’t like taking things too seriously. While I was thinking about what to call the brand, I remembered my younger days when I used to eat loads of anchovies, which my parents cooked to stay healthy. One of my goals is to bring people’s beautiful teenage memories back to the surface. I try to do it in a humorous way by using the image of an adolescent boy as a muse and mixing up styles, scents and things from

my own childhood.”

 ??  ?? One of the 50 outfits inspired by the “hōsmōse” concept. Designer: Bruno Veizaj. Photo: Sarah Tarves.
One of the 50 outfits inspired by the “hōsmōse” concept. Designer: Bruno Veizaj. Photo: Sarah Tarves.
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