Debut on the Calendar
Ten brands took part in Milan fashion week for the first time, presenting their collections digitally.
The edition of the Milan Fashion Week Men’s Collection FW 2021/22 was held from 15 to 19 January on the digital platform milanofashionweek.cameramoda.it. It was created by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) in collaboration with Confartigianato Imprese and with the support of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation and ICE Agenzia. Ten brands made their debut, being presented for the first time on the calendar as well as at virtual events and rooms devoted to sustainability and inclusion. The CNMI has an unfailing commitment to these issues as well as a policy of internationalisation and support for new designers. Among the newcomers is Dima Leu, winner of the men’s category of Who is on Next? 2020. Dima Leu is a Moldova-born designer who launched his namesake menswear brand in 2015, combining the concepts of tailoring and sportswear. Vaderetro is the brand of the duo formed by Antonio D’Andrea and Hanna Boyer that draws inspiration from the aesthetics of past decades, reworking them with their personal touch. Dalpaos by Nicola Dalpaos focuses on menswear made from reclaimed materials, deadstock fabrics and natural fibres. Since 2013 the Dhruv Kapoor brand has been seeking to reinterpret the concept of masculinity by breaking down gender rules. Tokyo James, founded by Iniye Tokyo James in 2015 and based in London and Lagos, features collections that mix Savile Row tailoring with a selection of unconventional colours and prints. Lagos Space Programme is the Nigerian Adeju Thompson’s brand, which aims to challenge the rules on themes such as blackness, African design and masculinity. Similarly, Faith Oluwajimi who founded Bloke in 2015 focuses on a genderless aesthetic with his sustainable design. Nick Fouquet launched his hat brand in 2013 in Los Angeles and leveraged his Franco-American roots to revolutionise the field. Federico Curradi started casually with the creation of a range of men’s trousers, then founded his eponymous menswear project. And finally Solid Homme, created in 1988 by Woo Young Mi, has now established itself as a male brand with an urban approach.
“CONCEPTUALLY, OUR CLOTHES ARE SEASONLESS AS THEY USE NATURAL TONES AND MATERIALS THAT CAN EASILY BE MIXED AND MATCHED THROUGHOUT THE YEAR. THAT’S WHY YOU’LL RECOGNISE CERTAIN CONTINUOUS GARMENTS FROM PREVIOUS DROPS IN ONE OF OUR RECENT SHOOTS. I DON’T SET OUT TO MAKE LARGE COLLECTIONS, BUT RATHER GREAT PIECES THAT CAN BE UPDATED IN THE RIGHT QUALITY AND COLOUR TO BECOME TOTALLY RESTYLED VERSIONS. THAT’S THE IDEA BEHIND THE NAME ‘EDITIONS’. THESE WILL EXIST ALONGSIDE EACH OTHER INSTEAD OF BECOMING OBSOLETE WITH EVERY NEW LAUNCH. TO REINFORCE THIS APPROACH, WE FEATURE VINTAGE ELEMENTS IN OUR CAMPAIGNS TO SHOW HOW OLD AND NEW CAN BE COMBINED. IT’S A DREAM OF MINE TO EVENTUALLY SELL THESE ITEMS ON OUR PLATFORM.”
“I wanted to create a sustainable label in every sense. I think the world needs to be a more caring place, with respect to ourselves, each other and our planet. At Caes we use a lot of organic cottons and recycled fabrics, as well as a leather alternative
called Vegea made from wine-industry waste. Besides using the right materials, responsibility is also about working with people who really care for the environment
and their employees, which to me is at least as important as the quality of the manufacturing. We collaborate with family-owned Portuguese firms that are continuously improving their processes, and we can closely follow production because they do everything in-house. My ideal suppliers are true partners who share our vision, and ultimately also our success.”