TAILORED DEFENCE

My colleague Chiara Spennato is the Queen of this particular editorial gambit: she oversaw the clothing curating that to my eyes contains many elements of the mid-century Ivy League we saw in that recent chess heavy Netflix smash. Also in the mix is a dash of Anthony Head in Chess – you won’t regret YouTubing One Night In Bangkok – plus a soupcon of Antony Hopkins in the last scene of The Silence of The Lambs. These jackets all look like the latest generation of derivations of Brooks Brothers’ 1918 invention, the Number One suit, which evolved via many hands into the quintessential tailoring silhouette of Ivy League. This jacket construction can be deployed with infinite variations within the context of its rules – which is pretty chess-relevant.

TAGLIATORE Unlined and unstructured linen and wool jacket / € 565

KITON Jacket in a cashmere, linen and silk blend / € 7,500 (suit)

BARBA NAPOLI Single-breasted jacket in cotton, linen and silk / € 735

CRUNA Single-breasted deconstructed jacket in linen / € 460

LARDINI Single-breasted jacket in silk, linen and wool / € 865

L.B.M. 1911 Unlined jacket in tencel, linen and cotton / € 450

LATORRE Wool and silk sartorial jacket / € 659 (suit)

DISTRETTO 12 Jacquard knitted jacket / € 169

BELVEST Linen single-breasted jacket / € 1,200