The Versatile & Elegant Riesling of Argentina
The evolution of the wine industry across various continents has allowed vintners to explore new and exciting ways of expressing traditional varieties. Among the countless grape varietals that have captivated enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike, one grape stands out as a timeless classic: Riesling. Its versatility, elegance, and ability to reflect terroir in a variety of enchanting flavours make it a wine that is deliciously pleasing to the palate and a favourite among wine lovers worldwide. Earlier this month, on March 13, 2024, vinophiles everywhere celebrated International Riesling Day, and today Thursday Food takes you on a journey to explore the intriguing expressions of Riesling from the unlikely yet promising terroirs of Argentina.
South America, renowned for its Malbecs, Carménères, Tannats and Torrontés, might not be the first region that comes to mind when thinking about Riesling. However, as the global wine community continues to conquer new frontiers and expressions, South American winemakers have embraced the challenge of cultivating this noble grape. Nestled at the foothills of the Andes, Argentina’s diverse microclimates offer an ideal canvas for winemakers to experiment with different grape varieties and while Malbec continues to dominate the landscape, Riesling has found a niche in cooler regions such as the Uco Valley and Patagonia.
In the Uco Valley, high altitudes and large diurnal temperature variations create conditions conducive to Riesling’s acidity and aromatic profile. The wines from this region exhibit crisp acidity, vibrant citrus notes, and a distinctive mineral character, reminiscent of their Old World counterparts from Germany and Alsace. Patagonia, with its cooler climate and proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, provides another exciting terroir for Riesling. Here, the grape achieves a delicate balance between acidity and sweetness, resulting in wines with pronounced floral aromas, ripe stone fruit flavours, and a refreshing acidity that lingers on the palate.
Elsewhere in South America like Brazil where their wine industry is often associated with sparkling wines and Merlots, Riesling has quietly been gaining recognition among both domestic and international consumers. Chile’s diverse geography offers a multitude of microclimates ideally suited for grape cultivation and while Riesling comprises a small fraction of Chile’s total vineyard area, it has garnered attention for its exceptional quality and distinct regional expressions. Despite its modest size, the Uruguayan wine industry’s commitment to quality and innovation has been making waves in recent years. While Tannat reigns supreme as the country’s flagship varietal, Riesling has emerged as a promising contender, particularly in the coastal region of Canelones.
Traditionally German, this grapevine is also successfully grown in French Alsace, where the best Riesling wines are made. Additionally, just like Semillón, Riesling is sensitive to being attacked by the “noble rot” condition. A typically fruity grapevine, it produces very interesting fresh elegant wines with easily identifiable aromas such as apple, oil or honey. These wines have a very well-balanced natural acidity, managing a remarkable character and
personality with tannic features as well as low alcoholic content making it a wine worth enjoying. Riesling grapes, which grow in clusters that are small and compact, are medium-sized to small, spherical and yellow, with consistent skin, juicy pulp and delicate aromatic flavour.
Thursday Food suggests these top picks from Argentina:
Humberto Canale Old Vineyard
Riesling is a 100 per cent varietal produced by Bodega Humerto Canale from vineyards at the La Morita Estate which date back to 1937. Located in General Roca, Alto Valle de Río Negro, it is the oldest Riesling plantation in Patagonia. The wine has an attractive greenish yellow colour with steely notes. Citrus fruit aromas with subtle tropical and white peach notes along with the presence of mineral characters are expressed on the nose. In the mouth, it exhibits great balance and harmony having a flavour that is fresh, fruity with elegant acidity as well as marked mineral characters. Luigi Bosca Riesling Las
Compuertas is 100 per cent made from the traditional French Alsace variety of the grape grown at Bodega Luigi Bosca’s Finca Los Nobles estate in Las Compuertas, Luján de Cuyo. The vineyard’s average age is 60 years and the resulting wines have expressive aromas reminiscent of tropical fruits and wild flowers, in addition to some mineral notes that add complexity. It is well-bodied, lively and refreshing in the mouth, while being clean and complex on the palate. It also has a tension and a floral character that reflects its typicity and well-defined personality.
Las Perdices Riesling is a 100 per cent varietal grown at 1,030 metres above sea level in the Agrelo area of Lujan de Cuyo by Viña Las Perdices. Pale yellow in colour with subtle greenish tones, the wine exhibits aromas of white flowers, lime, apple, citrus and mineral notes. Complex, unctuous in the mouth, it is also voluminous, highlighting the characteristic acidity of the variety. It is also ideal as an aperitif due to its correct acidity that gives it an admirable freshness. Doña Paula Estate Riesling
comprises 100 per cent Riesling grapes grown at their estate vineyards at Finca Alluvia, in the Gualtallary area of Valle de Uco. This wine is pale yellow in colour and has expressive aromas of white flowers, like jasmine, as well as citrus notes. In the mouth, it is fresh and mineral, having good acidity while also being complex with a delicate character that makes it very attractive.
Viñas del Nant y Fall Riesling is produced from 100 per cent Riesling grapes grown in the Trevelin area of Chubut, Patagonia, by Viñas del Nant y Fall. This Riesling has a light yellow colour with slight bright green tints expressing aromas of wild white flowers, green apple and citrus with medium to high intensity. In the mouth it is a wine of great complexity, with intense flavour and penetrating acidity with an ageing potential of several years.
As we celebrate International Riesling Day, let us raise a glass to the future of South American Riesling, a journey filled with discovery, passion, and endless possibilities. With each vintage, we uncover new layers of complexity, depth, and character, reaffirming Riesling’s status as one of the world’s most cherished and versatile grape varieties.