Orchid 101
WHERE IN THE HOUSE CAN I GROW MY ORCHID?
AN EAST or south-facing window provides bright enough light for growing orchids.
South and east-facing windows work best for orchids. West windows can be too hot in the afternoon and north-facing ones are usually too dark. A sheer curtain will cast light shade. Too much direct light causes leaves to sunburn – so it may be necessary to reposition plants as the seasons change. Move plants away from or towards the window to manipulate the amount of light. Make sure the leaves are not touching the glass. In winter in a cold climate, leaves touching the windowpane may freeze.
Leaf colour indicates if the amount of light is adequate. The lush, rich, dark green of most houseplants is not desirable in orchid leaves. A grassy green colour (light or medium green with yellowish tones) means the plant is receiving sufficient light to bloom.
WHAT IS THE BEST ORCHID FOR GROWING IN THE HOME?
Phalaenopsis will grow easily under average household conditions.
One of the most widely available orchids of the mass market types is also the best for the home – the phalaenopsis or moth orchid which will grow easily under the same conditions enjoyed by African violets. Another good choice is paphiopedilums or the slipper orchids, which have relatively attractive foliage, and will reflower in home conditions, giving weeks of floral display.
WHAT’S WRONG WITH MY ORCHID?
There are many reasons why buds fall off before flowering:
Underwatering or overwatering. Temperature extremes and rapid temperature changes (heating vents, air conditioning blowing directly on the plant). Fumes from natural gas leaks, paint, other chemicals. Ethylene – high producers are apple, avocado, peach, pear, plum, melons, figs, and tomatoes. I Low humidity. I Genetics. I Aphids, thrips and some mites. Changing growing location. If you want to change a plant’s location so that it will be enjoyed, wait until the flower opens first. Ants can be responsible for infestations of more serious pests. Ants seldom cause any direct damage to orchids; rather, they indicate the possibility of infestation by scale, mealybugs or aphids. To control ants it is usually adequate to remove the source of food that is attracting them, so you must examine your plants and control the pests that attract ants. Some orchids, especially cymbidiums, produce sugary secretions on the flower spikes. In this case, the ants can be prevented from reaching the plants by setting the legs of the bench into tins partly filled with oil or soapy water, to make an ant-proof moat.
If you find evidence of aphids, scale, or mealybugs, you may try either straight 70 per cent or 90 per cent isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol – touch the area with a soaked cotton swab, repeat every three days for about two weeks. If you want to use an insecticide while you have your plants outside, spray the benches, bench legs, the floors, and walls where the ants can climb up to the plants. Avoid spraying on the flowers. Another tip is to use bay leaves around the point of entry and in the pots. Ants are repelled by bay leaves.