Through the eyes of Marika-Ella Ames
Stylist, editor big on Jamaica and sustainability
TIME HAS served stylist and fashion editor Marika-Ella Ames well. More than a decade-plus in the global fashion space, the continent-hopping creative maintains the same burning passion that was lit within her when she started out as a curious but wilful adolescent. “I was catapulted into the industry in 2009, at age 16 where I began interning for the then-fashion editor of VICE Magazine, Sam Voulters, which had a rebellious, grunge and anti-fashion approach. For the next 10 years, I would assist a handful of stylists and develop a better education than any formal university styling course could give me.”
Born to a Jamaican father and an English mother in the American Midwestern state of Minnesota, Ames told The Sunday Gleaner, “We relocated to the United Kingdom when I was eight. Spending those formative years in London influenced me a lot. My friends and I would take pictures and style each other without putting any label on it. It was creative expression at its primitive purity.”
On the phone and taking a set break from her latest Gotham-located assignment – a just-released Calvin Klein pre-spring 2024 lookbook campaign – the ebullient stylist catches us up to speed with her fast, fabulous life in the fashion world. “I have been in the industry for 15 years now, and as an independent stylist for five of those years,” Ames disclosed. “My earlier days consisted of polar opposites, interning at Grunge VICE, to assisting celebrity stylists working with Rihanna and Kanye West, to then assisting former French Vogue editor Ludivine Poiblanc who was, among other things, editorat-large for Interview Magazine in New York City, working on projects with the most reputable photographers and talents in fashion.”
Under her belt is an expansive client resume including Harper’s Bazaar and The Face cover editorials bookended with advertising campaigns for Louisa Ballou and Zalando. A modest Ames though feels she’s only just skimmed the surface of achievements. “2023 was my best year yet. At the beginning of the year, I was head hunted to work with none other than music superstar Jorja Smith,” she said. “At the time, Jorja was releasing her album in the fall, and wanted me to come onboard to develop a cohesive stylistic image for her across the album roll-out.
This meant working on styling her for everything from music videos and live performances to events and brand partnership campaigns. Another personal high of the year just passed she check-marked “was [my] beginning to style and consult on the collections for Jamaica’s finest, Diotima [led by creative director and designer Rachel Scott], which is a creative relationship I treasure. It’s very important to me to work with Jamaican talent as we’re helping define and develop nuances of Jamaica in the fashion industry. I also style and consult for [Jamaica-born], London-based designer Jawara Alleyne. I work across campaigns, look books, shows and presentations for both Rachel and Jawara”.
Other watershed moments for Ames in 2023 were of a commercial nature, with such clients as Audi, Clarks, Nike, as well as a collaboration with costume designers in the creation of pieces for Palm Heights’ mas band which she styled for last year’s Cayman Islands carnival. Always keenly aware of fashion’s impact on our lives, the stylist takes a considered approach.
“I don’t think it’s fair to discuss fashion in 2024 without discussing sustainability. How can we sustain our practise? There are so many sustainable fabrics, techniques, and methods available that I believe every brand should have a substantial element of sustainability built in. The same goes for my profession. For me, creatively I think it’s both a beautiful challenge and an obvious choice to diversify my tools with two things I appreciate: vintage and natural elements from the land.”
Is her Caribbean extraction critical to the ethos for the in-demand stylist? “Where to begin? I feel a huge sense of pride in being Jamaican. I’m so inspired by my heritage,” she said. “The humour, the energy, the style, the colourful personalities, the love of excitement, the community. I believe Jamaicans are some of the most creative people. The rich history and art of storytelling has heavily influenced my practice.”
Last in Jamaica for the Christmas holidays into the new year, Ames told The Sunday Gleaner she has a working list of preferred go-to locales. “I have little nooks all over the island with friendship groups and hangout spots. But my favourite place would be the Blue Mountains. I feel the most energised and inspired there. I love spending time in Kingston, and going to the National Gallery, Hellshire and all the parties Kingston and the cays have to offer. But then I love to retreat in the mountains, go to Café EITS, hike up to the Rasta Temple, and follow the music to the country parties. I also spent some of the summer at Rock House in Negril which was a nature lover’s dream. I have a huge obsession with caves which the west of the island is rich in, and Rockhouse has several of those.”
But, the globe-trotting stylist also naturally receives inspiration from other cultures. She revealed that what may be surprising to many is her avid interest in Chinese art and martial arts culture. “I’ve spent a lot of time in China, training at a Shaolin school studying tai chi. This is yet to come out in my work, but when the time is right,” Ames reflected.
And, what of the unique obstacles encountered in her workspace as a black woman? Ames responded, “I believe every industry has its challenges for all, regardless of race or gender. The fashion industry is no different. I try not to consider obstacles, I just remember that this industry recognises eye and taste, so I must nurture mine and use it wisely and authentically.”
As to cultivating her point-ofview, Ames copped to her curious state of mind being the driver. “I’m inquisitive by nature and have an enormous appetite to learn about the niche wonders of the world which fuel my imagination, and it inspires my practice,” the 31-year-old explained. “Researching brings me the most joy in my downtime. I have also recently taken up scuba diving which has been a huge source of inspiration. With my job I’m constantly travelling, which is great as travel and exploration of new terrain is my greatest joy.”
Looking ahead, Ames, who cites the late English fashion designer Alexander McQueen as her biggest influence, wants to expand her horizons even further.
“When I began styling on my own, I consistently had huge checklists of what I wanted to achieve, but now I want to focus on the things that matter most to me. I want to broaden my consulting portfolio. Working closely with designers and brands and developing narratives and collections directly with the designers is something I feel passionately about. I also want to continue working with Jamaican and Caribbean talent, from directors to photographers to designers and more. And most importantly to continue learning throughout my journey.”