LUXE City Guides - Tokyo - - Aoyama I / Kotto Dori -

Re­fined, quirky nabe for Ja­pan’s best homegrown la­bels, an­tiques and ar­chi­tec­ture. Avoid Tue or Wed when some of th­ese stores close. Start out­side Max Mara on the cor­ner of Aoyama and Kotto Dori (K.D.). With your back to Max Mara, ei­ther cross to the opp. cnr for a fruity flan Berry Café (see Cof­fee), or head left into K.D. and take the next left at Niess­ing and mo­sey down the lane for Madu / 3498 2971 / on the right with Ja­panese tablewear. At the mini junc­tion take the next right to Felisi / 3498 6912 / for cov­etable Ital­ian bags and belts, then re­turn to the junc­tion and head straight to­wards main street Aoyama Dori, past puffer jacket ped­dler Du­vet­ica / 6427 3311 / on the right. When you hit Aoyama turn right, shimmy past the Spi­ral Bldg (home to fab 2/F de­sign store Spi­ral Mar­ket) and take the sec­ond right to B-com­pany / 5774 8848 / for odd, Jap­done­sian furny. Carry on; at the end is Aveda Life­style with Pure Café (see Lunch) for the Oo-er-vey­dic brigade. Exit Aveda and swish right to the red-brick T-place com­plex to espy art and de­sign books at Shi­mada Yosho / 3407 3863 / and tai­lor Icho (see Ad­vanced Shop.). Re­trace out of the com­plex right to ogle out-there de­signer gear at Dress­camp / 5778 3717 / (m/w), or turn left back up to K.D., cross over and down the bite-sized lane to find mod­ern cal­lig­ra­phy gallery Carré Moji (see Ad­vanced Shop.). Re­turn to K.D., cross at the lights and head right to Brit lux­ury store Vul­can­ize / 5464 5255. Push on and at the next lights turn left and 25m down are funky knick-knacks on your left at Is­siken / 3406 3936 / (no English sign), then cubed mini-mall Glas­sarea a few steps along on your right, with 291 / 5778 0291 / stock­ing neat Fukui pre­fec­ture ce­r­ams and more, plus Flamingo Café’s ter­race / 6418 5020. Back to K.D., cross and ei­ther pop into un­der­ground style stash Idol / 6427 4779 / idol­ / or scam­per left for Morita’s (see Ad­vanced Shop.) di­vine an­tique ki­mono and tex­tiles. Exit right and take the sec­ond right for inkpo­rium Sho­saikan (see Ad­vanced Shop.) on the left (note no Eng sign, look for the bam­boo front gar­den). Back to K.D., go right and carry along to Kikuya / 3400 3856 / a charm­ing old-fash candy store, and Sem­pre / 5464 5655 / for mod Nip­pon furny, home­ware and gad­gets. On, on like the wind, past two sets of lights and then some to Ichi­gendo / 3498 2266 / an­tiques. Ei­ther cross the road and zap 25m up to Athalie / 3400 5744 / for gor­geous jewellery, shoes and ob­jects, or re­trace back to the lights, turn right and trot down the street to Tabasa / 3486 2771 / for Fran­cofrill threads. Exit Tabasa and cross the street to glass life­style haven WTW / 5468 2560 / wtw­ / on the cor­ner. Take the side exit and tot­ter down the laneway where tiny Ishii Col­lec­tion / 3486 6683 / has block prints, and the Chrome Hearts / 5766 1081 / com­pound shelves mu­cho bling. Re­trace out and zip down the op­po­site lane to sad­dlers Somes / 5464 2555 / think Ja­panese Hèrmes, then across is the Taro Okamoto Me­mo­rial Mu­seum / 3406 0801 / ded­i­cated to the es­teemed avant-garde artist, with teensy A Piece of Cake / 5466 0686 / in­side for a cuppa. Phew! Fancy more? The next itin starts here – handy, Andy-san.

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