In the footsteps of

Bali has always been popular with tourists, drawing water sports enthusiasts, surfers and divers, honeymooners, downshifters, artists, sculptors and art lovers, in fact just about anyone who is looking to relax close to the ocean in a simple hut surrounded by rice fields. In 2006, the book Eat. Pray. Love by Elizabeth Gilbert made the island incredibly popular and the 2010 film starring Julia Roberts turned it into a tourist Mecca, especially the village of Ubud, where we started our trip.

Ubud has always been famous for its craftsmen. Set back some distance from the ocean, it is surrounded by tropical forests and elegant rice terraces. The first local landmark for us is the house of the fortune-teller Ketut Liyer, who became a megastar after the film was released. Thousands of tourists hoping to look into their future have flown here to visit him and the once ordinary house that Elizabeth Gilbert saw has turned into a spiritual centre. Ketut Liyer passed away two years ago, but his 64-year old son Nioman Latra continues his business, receiving visitors, reading palms and offering encouragement and advice. You can also come here simply to walk in the gardens and enjoy the scenery; it costs

$25 a night at booking.com if you book in advance. While Nioman Latra talks in general terms, he also spoke of something to each of us that was known only to ourselves and what he read in our palms was spot on. Many people come to him not just to learn the future but for reassurance and hope. You can practice yoga here, meditate, have a health-improving massage or simply a proper rest. There are many other yoga and meditation centres in Ubud, as well as Ketuta House, making this the perfect place to relax.