Nur-sultan. Winter Wonderland
Twenty years ago the new capital of Kazakhstan was built in an icy wasteland, but now it has grown into a city with a well-earned reputation for excellence. It is not only the city’s image that has changed since those distant days, but also its residents and the range of leisure activities on offer.
Nur-sultan (recently called Astana, meaning ‘capital’) has been attracting attention as a modern, stunning, fast-moving and developing city. It is also the second coldest capital in the world, the coldest being the Mongolian capital, Ulan Bator. Opportunities may seem limited when the temperature can fall to -50о С, however in reality it doesn’t often get as cold as that and the thermostat usually hovers around the -15 to -20о С mark. Dry frost is more comfortable than wet damp weather, and Nur-sultan has plenty of winter fun up its sleeve.
One of the first things to consider are the ice towns. They generally appear in mid-december and for them the city’s weather conditions are ideal, allowing them to stay intact for the entire winter. The largest is built on the embankment of the Ishim River, near the government buildings; there are about a dozen ice towns scattered around the city, inhabited by fairy-tale figures carved out of ice. The sculptors improvise and make jokes, the designers get creative, and selfie lovers hurry to capture images of themselves against the backdrop of their favourite scenes, with cheeks reddened by the frosty air. A perfect winter activity.
For more energetic fun, sledging slopes are built near the ice towns. The largest slope is at the ice town on the embankment. If you don’t see it straight away, you’ll know you’re close by the sound of rapturous screams coming from adults and children. It’s about 30 metres long with a 5-metre drop, and when it comes to festive decorations this slope can give a European Christmas a run for its money.
Christmas and New Year have a different
pace here than in European countries, where people start getting ready for holidays ahead of time and then life slows down during the Christmas break. Kazakhstan takes another approach. The Christmas mood is in full swing by mid-december, but there’s no slacking off at Christmas as the holiday focus is on New Year’s Eve. So public festivities and firework displays continue right through Christmas Day and onwards. Another point to bear in mind is that Kazakhstan is a properly multi-cultural country with over a hundred different ethnic groups living here, so when you head out for public festivities you can expect to enjoy music and traditional costumes from around the world.
These events include markets with all types of food and souvenirs to help you remember your visit for a long time afterwards.
The holiday season doesn’t end with the New Year festivities. Orthodox Christmas is just around the corner at the beginning of January, followed by a dip in an ice hole to celebrate the Epiphany, and then the Maslenitsa festival.
An unprepared tourist might
be taken aback by the tradition of plunging into an ice hole to mark the Epiphany, why would anyone voluntarily immerse themselves in icy water in freezing weather? For some it is a religious activity, for others an extreme sport, but it is nothing special for winter swimmers who swim all year round. The Epiphany ice-hole dunk is an ancient tradition that has retained its popularity with the passing years. It is for you to decide whether you have the courage to join the daredevils or if you think it is fun enough just to watch.
There are less radical, but no less breathtaking, activities that are hugely popular with residents and visitors.
When winter arrives, ice-skating rinks are set up in almost every park and yard with rented equipment. Old and young rush to the ice; skilled skaters demonstrate their mastery and amateurs can hire instructors.
The same applies to cross-country skiing, as parks, bicycle lanes, and suburban expanses turn into ski runs. This healthy exercise will warm you up, recharge your batteries and raise your adrenaline levels.
There are beautiful places to
visit just outside the city, in the neighbouring villages and resorts of Zerenda and Burabay (Borovoe). Here you can enter a winter fairy tale in all its glory. If you want an experience to remember try dog sledding and imagine yourself one of the great northern explorers. If dogs don’t impress you, then try a visit to Santa Claus who will promise to make your dreams come true, and you can get to him in a sleigh drawn by deer. What could be more festive than that?
The more mechanically minded can rent a snowmobile and set off across snow-covered fields and through forests. Boredom will not be a problem.
However, if you are not a great
adventurer, there is a sport that requires more patience than strength, and that is ice fishing. Every year there are tournaments set up for people fishing in ice-holes, and they also take place in the heart of the city, on the frozen surface of the Ishim River. You can do what entertains you most – join the participants or cheer them on.
Overall, if you heading to Nursultan, bear in mind that you can’t pack too many warm clothes and hats. If you follow this simple rule you will fall in love with the city and its winter entertainments. I have to admit that I decided, having gathered all the material for this article and looking at all possible options, that Nur-sultan is where I will be for my Christmas break. With this festive winter wonderland on my doorstep, how could I resist?