Land of Legend and Winter Snow

If you’re in Nur-sultan and wanting a holiday out in the countryside, then you’re in luck as Burabay and Zerenda are practically on your doorstep. Welcome to a world of sunshine and snowy forests in a land of ancient legends.

If you leave the Kazakh capital and drive north for 250 km on perfect roads you find yourself in one of the country’s treasures, the Burabay National Park. As you approach the city of Shchuchinsk you will see the dense pine forests that surround the entire park. It’s a heady treat to walk among the fir trees and breathe in the fresh, clean air laced with the scent of pine needles.

There is a popular legend about Burabay, which says that when God created the world he gave some people beautiful mountains, and others fertile fields or deep woods. The people who lived here found themselves with nothing but the wide open steppe. They went to the Creator and asked for at least some of the natural beauty he had given to others, and God agreed. He put his hand into his sack of gifts only to discover that there was almost nothing left. Right at the bottom were some rocky outcrops and mountains, a few clear springs and transparent lakes. He carefully picked up all these pieces in his hands and threw them into the middle of the Kazakh steppe, and in doing so created one of the most beautiful places in Kazakhstan.

The magic of Burabay lies not only in its pine forests, but in its picturesque mountains and lakes as well. There are 14 lakes in the reserve, with the most famous of them being Shchuchye, Borovoye, Big and Small Chebachye, Katarkol and

Maibalyk. The beach season starts in the summer at Borovoye Lake where there is a city beach and lakeside hotels that offer their own private ones. The water in the lake is always cool, but this doesn’t deter the visitors who f lock here on hot summer days.

Borovoye Lake is famous for its much-photographed stone island, Zhumbaktas (which in Kazakh means ‘mysterious stone’). The boulder in the centre of the bay has been given this name because the upper part looks from one angle like the head of an old woman, and from another a young girl in profile.

The small mountain of Okzhetpes (in Kazakh ‘unreachable even by arrows’) cuts into the sky by the lake. Legend says that a beautiful young captive Kalmyk girl was forced to

choose a warrior to marry. The girl ascended the mountain and holding a handkerchief said: “I will marry the one who can reach this with an arrow”. The most skilful dzhigits (mounted warriors) gathered at the base of the mountain and made many attempts to reach the top with their arrows but they all failed. The girl was ordered to return but she chose instead to leap off her rocky outcrop and into the lake. The stone island of Zhumbaktas appeared at the place where she died.

There are mountain ranges of various heights throughout the park. The area near the Kokshetau Mountain is ideal for hikers, and the highest peak is 947 m above sea level. The starting point for the ascent is the Polyana (Glade)

of Abylay Khan, as he once had his headquarters in the foothills here. It is perhaps the second most popular tourist destination after Zhumbaktas. In the glade is a tall white monument and a natural granite throne, and people believe that if you walk round the throne several times your wish is sure to come true.

You can only climb the Kokshetau Mountain if accompanied by one of the park’s guides. There is no fixed trail for the ascent, you start in the rolling foothills then climb the rocky face. It can be dangerous if there are strong winds and rain, but when you get to the top you are rewarded with a panoramic view of the entire valley. If you don’t feel up to the challenge then there are other, gentler climbs with equally stunning views from the top. One example is the mountain of Bolektau, an easy route giving you a famous view of Borovoye Lake and Kokshetau Mountain.

In summer, the village of Burabay turns into a resort town with many hotels, guest houses, cafés and bars. It is quiet and calm during off-season and especially in winter. There are only a few all-season hotels and resorts so winter is the best time to avoid the crowds. At the Rixos Borovoe Hotel, on the shores

of Shchuchye Lake, you can unwind and relax in the hotel’s spa.

Lakes freeze in winter and if you find a good spot with ice you can skate or try your hand at ice-hole fishing. There are a few small skiing centres, good for children and beginners. Akzhelken has a small slope for skiers and tobogganers. Close to Shchuchinsk is Nurtau, which has one ski lift and a little further on, near Kokshetau, is the Elikti ski resort.

Zerenda is north of Burabay and

320 km from Nur-sultan. The forest,

with its mixture of coniferous and leafy trees, surrounds a clear lake.

This is a popular holiday destination, attracting visitors from every region of Kazakhstan as well as neighbouring countries, who come to fish or walk in the fresh air enjoying the beauty of their surroundings.

There are leisure centres and hotels along the shore of the lake to suit every budget. If you are looking for comfort, try Aurora Garden or Zeren, which are open all year round.

Winter is no reason to stay at home, so take warm clothes and head off to discover the snowy beauty of this legendary corner of Kazakhstan.