Floating around ‘Venice of Kyushu’
YANAGAWA, Japan — A boatman breaks out into a traditional Japanese song in his low-pitched voice as the boat passes under the boughs of beautiful willow trees on the banks of the canal.
A pleasant breeze brushes past the faces of passengers, and the water laps against the boat to make faint sounds making background all the more beautiful.
Peace and serenity are among the words that best describe Yanagawa, a lovely little city in the southwestern part of Fukuoka Prefecture.
Yanagawa is famous for its hundreds of kilometers of canals all over the city. They were built for defensive purposes in the 16th century and have been maintained since then to be used as both transportation networks and recreational attractions.
Riverboats, called “donkobune,” are a unique means of transportation that tourists can use to see most parts of the city through the waterways.
In this city of 70,000, there isn’t anything super glamorous. But it’s beautiful in many ways. From the boat, the passengers can see a grove of willow trees reflected in the water and birds flying above them. Spring is a great time of the year to enjoy the ride with flowers such as cherry blossoms and irises.
Tourists can also see traditional Japanese-style storehouses as the boat slowly passes under bridges on the way. To avoid bumping into them, everyone should duck their heads down, which is all part of the fun.
Another interesting part of a boat ride is to observe the boatman who masterly uses his pole to address the passengers with wit and humor.
From time to time, the boatman explains sightseeing spots they pass to the passengers. Then he may start singing a song, which would go perfectly with the surroundings.
After a few songs, the boat may reach another part of the city, which takes about the same time to walk back to the starting point. For those who are too tired to walk, there is also a station for free shuttles nearby the drop-off point.
But it is highly recommended to walk back to the starting point, which is next to Yanagawa Station. Many tourists would find it pleas- ant — perhaps even more than boating — to have another chance to look around the charming city in detail before going home.
The boat ride takes about 70 minutes, and the services are available all year round. In winter, tourists can warm themselves with “hibachi” braziers on boats. Even when it rains, they can enjoy the ride while wearing a raincoat.
Yummy eels
Another famous thing about Yanagawa is “unagi no seiro mushi,” or steamed eel in a basket. The dish is one of the first things Japanese would think of when they hear the name of the city.
This dish is made up of rice mixed with delicious sauce, topped with thinly-sliced egg. After placing everything necessary in the basket, the cook re-steams the dish for the container to be maintained at a hot temperature and for the rice to completely soak in the flavor until the very last bite.
Taste? Not only does it have the soft texture of the eel but also the mellowness and sweetness from the special soy sauce. Many tourists say it’s the best taste they experienced in Japan.
The dish requires time and effort to cook. So expect to wait for a while after ordering. For the time being, you can have a unique local soup that features eel liver and a cup of tea, which often come before the main dish.
There are so many restaurants specializing in eel dishes across Yanagawa, and each one has its own special recipe for sauce. So don’t stick with the first restaurant where you found it great. The next one may be even better.
Yanagawa Doll Festival
Families in the Yanagawa area have a tradition of decorating the rooms of their daughters with “sagemon” to celebrate her first Doll Festival, which usually runs from March to April.
Sagemon are mobile-like hanging ornaments that feature seven strings tied from a bamboo ring that has been decorated in beautiful colors — mainly red and white.
Each string has items such as Yanagawa-mari, a traditional type of handmade decorative ball. Along with canals and eel dishes, the display of hanging sagemons is one of the hallmarks of the city.
During the festival, tourists can see sagemons everywhere: buildings, streets and waterways are beautifully decorated with them. They can also enjoy seeing special displays such as “Living Dolls on Water Parade” and “Floating Doll Festival” on the designated days.
Peace and serenity are among the words that best describe Yanagawa