Paintings from Joseon era provide glimpse into Korea’s culinary history
The Hansik Space E:eum in central Seoul, managed by the Korean Food Promotion Institution, is hosting an exhibition that showcases the rich culinary history of Korea through genre paintings from the Joseon Kingdom (13921910) period. The exhibit includes 17 copies of famous Joseon-era artworks, reproduced by members of the Korean Minhwa Association.
Song Chang-soo, president of the Korea Minhwa Association and professor at Dongduk Women’s University, emphasized the value of genre painting in depicting the daily lives of people, a subject once overlooked in art history.
The exhibition, running through March 30, brings to life the traditions and everyday activities surrounding “hansik,” or Korean food.
Highlighted among the paintings is “Rice Threshing” by Kim Hong-do (1745-1806) from his “Album of Genre Paintings,” depicting workers engaged in threshing rice during the fall harvest season, while a figure likely representing the landowner reclines on a mat, resting against a bundle of rice. This scene underscores the significance of rice in Korean culture, serving not only as a staple food but also as a cornerstone of the country’s agricultural heritage.
Another painting by Kim Hong-do, “By the Well,” captures the energetic daily life of late Joseon era people, highlighting how water played a key role in cooking everything from steamed rice to “makgeolli” (Korean rice wine) and “sikhye” (Korean sweet rice punch).
“A Tavern,” also from Kim Hong-do, illustrates a traditional tavern scene where traveling merchants are depicted enjoying quick meals on the ground, consisting of steamed rice and kimchi.
“Milking a Cow,” a piece from Jo Yeong-seok’s “Album of Secret Paintings,” playfully depicts four men of the ruling class engaged in milking a cow. In the Joseon era, milk was used to make “tarakjuk,” or milk porridge, considered a nutritious and energy-boosting delicacy favored by the royal and ruling classes.
Kim Jun-geun, an enigmatic painter from the late Joseon period whose life dates remain unknown, made a significant mark by selling more than 1,500 genre paintings to Westerners through the ports of Busan and Wonsan as Korea began to open to the West in the late 19th century. His artworks, which vividly capture the daily lives of the Joseon people before the advent of photography, are now treasured in some 20 museum collections around the globe.
“Kim Jun-geun often painted upon request from foreigners, thus preserving facts of everyday life that might otherwise have been overlooked by Koreans themselves due to their familiarity,” Song explained, based on the historical records showing Westerners, including Paul
Georg von Mollendorff, a German diplomat and adviser to King Gojong, purchasing Kim’s paintings.
Among his works, “Making Noodles,” housed in the Ethnological Museum of Berlin, portrays two men crafting noodles with a dough press machine, while Kim Jun-geun’s other works depict scenes of traditional activities such as pounding rice cakes and making taffy.
“Contrary to depictions in historical dramas where ‘gukbap’ [rice in soup] is predominantly shown at taverns or pubs, noodles have always been a beloved staple in Korean cuisine,” Song said.
The exhibit also delves into depictions of special and festive meals served during important Korean celebrations such as the first birthday, wedding and the 60th birthday.
One notable piece, “Bongsudang Jinchan-do,” captures the grand banquet in honor of the 60th birthday of Lady Hyegyeong, mother of King Jeongjo, held at the Bongsudang Hall within Hwaseong Fortress in Suwon during King Jeongjo’s reign in the late 18th century.
Song expressed the association’s commitment to continuing the exploration of Korean food culture through art.
“Beyond replicating traditional pieces, we’re also creating modern genre paintings that reflect our times. We could include modern dishes such as ‘gimbap’ [seaweed rice roll] and ‘tteokbokki’ [spicy rice cakes] in traditional Korean artistic style, possibly pairing these artworks with the actual dishes during exhibit,” Song said.
Lim Kyung-sook, chairperson of the institution, expressed hope that the exhibition would spark greater interest in Korean food culture among both locals and international visitors.