Tap Temple’s rock pagodas feature otherworldly scenery
Surreal seems an understatement when describing Tap Temple in Jinan, North Jeolla Province. When you first arrive at this temple, it feels like you’re stepping onto a different planet. In fact, it almost feels like you’ve landed on the moon.
Tap Temple is located on the southern slopes of Maisan Provincial Park. Tap Temple, which means “Pagoda Temple” in English, is nestled in a small valley between the pockmarked peaks of Mount Maisan (687.4 m) and a ridge that runs all the way up to neighboring Eunsu Temple.
The rock-strewn surrealistic surface of the temple grounds is filled with rock pagodas with both small and large spires sticking out from the stony landscape. The stones for the smaller pagodas were harvested locally. As for the larger stones, which can reach up to nine meters in height, they were collected from streams, rivers and mountains throughout Korea so as to reach a level of harmony with their spiritual energy. These pagodas were first built by the enigmatic layman Lee Gap-yong (1860-1957). From the age of 25, and for the next 30 years, Lee spent time not only meditating, but also builing these round stone pagodas.
As for the design of the pagodas, Lee constructed them by using the eight progressive positions method of Zhuge Liang (181-234), a statesman, strategist and inventor. Using Zhuge’s methods, stones are first laid in a circular configuration. Only then are additional stones placed inside the circle. Afterwards, more stones are then placed in a position to form a conical pyramid. The structure is then topped with a flatshaped stone. To complete this style of pagoda, another flat stone, in a yin or yang position, is added over and over to the top until the desired shape and height of the pagoda is met. Lastly, but certainly not least, both smaller and larger pebbles and stones are then placed inside the gaps of the stone pagoda to help stabilize the overall structure. And Lee would repeat this process, varying in size and height, some 108 times.
Of the 108 that he originally constructed, some 80 still remain standing to this day, which is rather remarkable considering their perceived fragility.
Additionally, the near-herculean task of constructing all of these pagodas is rendered even more impressive when one considers that all this was done without the support of modern conveniences like an excavator or forklift.
Later in life, Lee would become an ordained monk and the grounds would become a temple belonging to the Taego-jong Buddhist Order, which is the second-largest Buddhist Order in Korea.
You first approach Tap Temple up a 1.5-kilometer pathway inside Maisan Provincial Park. The road skirts the beautiful twin peaks of Mount Maisan.
Arriving at the outskirts of Tap Temple, you’ll notice both the large and small spires sticking out from the extraterrestrial landscape. These pagodas look fragile — and yet, they’ve stood for over 100 years.
Standing in front of this rather strange landscape, you’ll find a bronze statue dedicated to Lee Gapyong inside an artificial cave.
As you make your way up the mountainous trail, heading towards the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll get an amazing view of the surrealistic landscape all around you. Perched above the landscape of pagodas is the diminutive Daeung-jeon. Stepping inside the main hall, you’ll find a triad of statues on the main altar centered by Seokgamoni-bul (Historical Buddha). This central image is joined by Gwanseeum-bosal (Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Jijangbosal (Bodhisattva of the Afterlife).
Directly to the rear of the main hall is the highly original Sanshin-gak Hall. Housed inside this shaman shrine hall is a statue dedicated to Sanshin (Mountain Spirit). Backing this statue is a mural of a male and female Sanshin (rare unto itself). But rather surprisingly, and to the far left, is a painted image of Lee Gap-yong. Is this a suggestion that Lee was also an incarnation of Sanshin, or just another opportunity to highlight the ever-present image of Lee at the temple? Speaking of which, a statue of Lee sits next to the statue of Sanshin on the main altar.
Behind both of these two temple shrine halls, and off-limits to the general public, are two of Tap Temple’s most famous pagodas. They are Cheonji-tap Pagoda and Obang-tap Pagoda. Both are also the largest stone pagodas on the temple grounds at nearly 13.5 meters in height.
The entire temple complex at Tap Temple really is unlike anything else you’ll ever see at a Buddhist temple in Korea. This temple goes a long way in dispelling the common complaint that all Korean temples look the same. At every angle, and every turn, you’ll see a new pagoda or statue buried in the pockmarked landscape. So what better way to celebrate the upcoming Buddha’s Birthday holiday than with a visit to Tap Temple?
Dale Quarrington has visited over 500 temples throughout the Korean Peninsula and published four books on Korean Buddhism. He runs the website, Dale’s Korean Temple Adventures.