Dior fuses 2 periods

Browne’s wonderland

PARIS, Jan 21, (AP): Designer Kris Van Assche travelled back in a fashion time machine Saturday while Robert Pattinson explained the importance of clothes for acting roles as he attended Dior Homme’s Paris menswear collection.

Here are some highlights of the fourth day of fall-winter shows: Dior It was an ambitious fusion of two periods for Dior Homme: A sartorial homage to the past that twinned what the house called the “reckless abandon” of youth with the couture of Monsieur Dior’s New Look.

Designer Van Assche used references to 1990s tattoo culture in prints and gothic silver jewelry alongside suit variations on the Bar Jacket from the famed 1947 collection that transformed Western fashion.

The two-periods theme in the 49 suit-heavy looks was also evident in the age range of the models, who were either very young, or over 40.

The first styles, accessorized with silk neck scarves, featured some beautifully refined single- and double-breasted suits with narrow waists that curved out in a slight peplumshape. Suits are the bread-and-butter of the house.

“I thought it was a good moment for Dior to go back to its DNA, like really the sharply cut suit,” the 41-year-old Van Assche told The Associated Press. Thom Browne There was the real crunching sound of fake snow at Thom Browne’s theatrical menswear display that wowed guests with its snowy white forest scene and tall silver birches lining the runway.

Equally impressive were the winter styles in the clothes.

With many designs channeling the sartorial vibe from which the New York City-based designer cut his cloth, Browne prepared his models to brave the harshest elements of the coldest months and in the process produced one of the best shows of the season.

Gray-blue knit ted caps, oversize knit scarves, red snow gloves and robust black hiking boots with thick lacing accessorized wrapped-up looks. They included block-like fur trims on cuffs and hems in the coat-heavy 32-look collection with classic tailoring in knit fabric. Balmain Homme Eclectic was the word for Olivier Rousteing’s high-energy show for Balmain Homme.

Mixing menswear and the womenswear pre-collection designs, the 32-year-old designer referenced almost all of the thematic touchstones used in previous shows within the same collection.

The 64 looks — in mainly green, black and gold — were a glimmering treasure trove of ideas.

Silver sparkle on a women’s singlet looked like chainmail, seen again in a men’s statement coat which screamed 1980. Sacai One of Japan’s most popular luxury brands, Sacai gave traditional Latin American styles an urban reworking for its Saturday morning show.

With its signature use layering, thick embroidered sweaters sported voluminous fringing that evoked ponchos that originated in the Andes region.

Their hue of intense pastel red gave the statement garments a contemporary lift.

Then styles from the gaucho horse riders that were popular in 19th-century Argentina, Brazil and Uruguay were included.