Utilitarian styles

Paris showcases new ideas

PARIS, Jan 16, (AP): Acrid exhaust fumes and the beeping of car horns contrasted with perfumed interiors and the soft rustle of luxuriant fabrics, as Paris Fashion Week got underway in the public transport strike-hit French capital. The disruption – owing to a nationwide protest against pension reform – has already claimed its first catwalk victims, with at least one house cancelling its show due to problems delivering materials. Here are some highlights of Wednesday’s menswear collections for fall-winter 2020-2021.

Valentino In a bejeweled visor and diaphanous silk gown, the singer that warbled from the stage at the Valentino show presented an angelic vision.

Accompanied by a soul-searing cellist and pianist, she sang of womanhood and female empowerment as enchanted VIP guests inside the Grand Palais venue held out their cameras.

Albeit sublime, this choice of presentation had fashion insiders asking, after the show, how it fitted in with the rather run-of-the-mill menswear clothes they just saw?

Designer Pierpaolo Piccioli on Wednesday produced a collection grounded firmly on earth – on an urban sidewalk, in fact.

It was sporty and utilitarian with a relatively slim silhouette, mainly comprising statement coats with printed words or blown-up flowers.

Off White Au unexpected sartorial twist set the tone at the start of Virgil Abloh’s menswear offering this season for Off White.

It signaled a nice direction for the US designer – who fused the suited vibe with the urban, basketball-infused aesthetic for which he is best known.

A loose double-breasted jacket sported perforated holes. A gray shirt had billowing sporty toggles hanging down from inside. While an oversize basketball jersey was made with a thick and sumptuous knit, with a beautiful Asian feel in billowing sleeves.

The increased star-power Abloh has accrued since becoming Louis Vuitton’s menswear designer was on full show via the flash of cameras, powerful front row and heaving masses inside the Louvre basement venue.

AMI A dramatic red theater curtain – closed and mysteriously lit up – a roused the curiosity of fashion insiders invited to French designer Alexandre Mattiussi’s fall-winter collection for AMI.

The theatrical occasion intended to celebrate the Parisian it-label’s ninth year anniversary, and what better a way to mark a milestone for a French fashion house than a grumpylooking musician playing a bejeweled accordion?

The unisex styles filed by to the live on-stage music, riffing on tuxedo styles in the display’s first looks.

Etudes Fashion-forward French house Etudes merged the austere with the fun to produce an accomplished and highly wearable collection. A menacing dark gunmetal 80s overcoat with minimalist cinched waist, big black boots and a model with a punk Mahican began the show.

Then, a black T-shirt featuring an image of Arnold Schwarzenegger as The Terminator even made an appearance.

This hard aesthetic was poked fun at as the 44-piece collection progressed.

Psychedelic prints on suits and oversize pockets followed dazzling neon lime scarves and a giant blue knitted sweater depicting a world map.