Fol­low­ing Suit

Bespoke - - HIS GROOMING -

Cre­ated by Ed­mond Roud­nit­ska in 1966, Chris­tian Dior’s Eau Sau­vage is a clear and fresh scent of lemon and bit­ter­fresh rose­mary with a mas­cu­line, woody base. Though it’s a con­tentious point, we’d put our necks on the line and call it the most im­por­tant men’s fra­grance of the 20th cen­tury. The ori­gins of Eau Sau­vage’s com­po­si­tion trace back to Roud­nit­ska’s de­sire to sim­plify per­fumery. Its magic was not so much in its notes as much as their bal­ance, or rather the in­tel­li­gent and evoca­tive har­mony that can be found be­tween dis­parate el­e­ments. Re­mark­ably, it was also the first main­stream scent to ever use hedione (a syn­thetic com­pound with an al­most jas­mine-like aquatic essence) that’s said to stim­u­late an area of the brain re­spon­si­ble for the re­lease of hor­mones in women. This year, to cel­e­brate its land­mark fifti­eth an­niver­sary, Dior has asked its master per­fumer, François Demachy, to re­work Eau Sau­vage to bet­ter ap­peal to a new gen­er­a­tion of cus­tomers. The re­sult is a Cologne, which still hooks you with a cit­rus vi­vac­ity but through new el­e­ments such as Cal­abrian berg­amot, man­darin, bit­ter grape­fruit and pink pep­per­corns, an­chored by the orig­i­nal’s sig­na­ture woods and green notes that be­come a sweet, clean blend of grassy ve­tiver and fresh leaves. Don’t think of it as a re­mas­ter­ing though, as it’s an en­tirely new fra­grance with just a fleet­ing re­sem­blance to the orig­i­nal Eau de Toi­lette. Stick with the past or suc­cumb to the present? It’s your call.

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