ICELAND

There has been a general absence of Mediterranean cuisine in Iceland, a reality that had been bothering chef Þráinn Freyr Vigfússon for some time, until one day, he decided to do something about it by teaming up with another Nordic chef. Together, they opened Sumac Grill, named after the tangy condiment commonly used throughout the Middle East and Africa region.

What part have experience and context played in making you the chef you are today?

A lot; experience gained while traveling has made me a more confident chef in doing new and simple things, and not always complicating things or sticking to doing things the way I'm used to. I’ve taken a lot from my trips abroad when working or volunteering in restaurants in the US, France, UK, Sweden and Italy, learning from each kitchen their customs and traditions.

We’ve heard that you use Lebanese and Moroccan ingredients in your Icelandic food. What was behind that decision?

I fell in love with them. I found the North Africa and Lebanon cuisines to be very interesting, so I started to look them up and travel to those countries, seeking out restaurants with these culinary styles in every city I visit. Of course, at Sumac we’re not cooking authentic Lebanese or North African cuisine, but fusion cooking, where we’re using Icelandic ingredients and spicing things up with some of the techniques and traditions from these countries.

Simplicity and complexity are often intertwined in cuisine. On balance, which side do you lean toward?

I usually side with the simple dish, though sometimes it takes time to prep. Then it’s about adding some more subtle flavors that take time to make in a sauce or garnish. The guest doesn’t see the work in that, but only tastes it.

Does true creative expression involve mastering a recipe or making something new?

For me it's making food better – making it tastier and playing with the senses. With this in mind, mastering a recipe that's old or new and making it more interesting is my passion.