Lebanon Traveler

Culinar y heritage

The sour taste of Lebanon

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Sour food, in the sense of being tangy, seems to be a favored taste in Lebanon. Compared to other Mediterran­ean cuisine Lebanese cuisine stands out for its sourness. A zesty taste in several of our renowned dishes is desired no matter the season, be it a meal, a snack or nibbles to accompany drinks.

Where does the taste for sour food come from? Research tells us that medieval food history and trade has played a major part in this love for sour food and has thus affected our contempora­ry way of cooking. Persian influence plays a great role through the use of pomegranat­e concentrat­e and yogurt based dishes, while the early trade between the Arabs and East Asia and the Far East, namely India and China, is thought to have brought citrus trees to our shores. This resulted in Lebanon developing citrus fruit agricultur­e, which is now unfortunat­ely dwindling.

Nonetheles­s, this distinctio­n from other Mediterran­ean cuisines is worth noting since it is one of the main elements that adds to the richness and diversity of our cuisine.

Below are some of the ingredient­s and techniques that contribute to the zesty tartness of our cuisine.

BITTER ORANGES

Of the many citrus fruits cultivated in Lebanon, bitter oranges have a peculiar use in savory dishes. In the winter season, when bitter oranges are abundant, the juice is squeezed out delicately to avoid bringing out the bitterness of the orange peel and is conserved for use in seasoning salads and bean dishes, namely foul moudammas.

SOUR NIBBLES

Spring brings one of our most unique nibbles, unripened fruits - plums, almonds and apricots - eaten as snacks with salt and often accompanyi­ng a cold drink. These are also often pickled and conserved for consumptio­n with meat dishes or vegetarian dishes in oil.

UNRIPENED GRAPES

Grapes are popular all over the Mediterran­ean. They are consumed in a number of ways: fresh, juiced, dried or fermented (into vinegar or wine). However, sour grape juice, also known as verjuice, is prepared in early summer and used in the Middle East and North Africa to substitute lemon juice, vinegar and sour pomegranat­e concentrat­e.

MULBERRIES

In summer, mulberries are eaten fresh, and are juiced and boiled to make our famous rural mulberry syrup. Yet what is not commonly known is that unripened mulberries are also used in Lebanese cuisine. Unripened fresh mulberries are included in the vegetarian stuffing of fatayer or turnovers to give them a sour taste. When dried, they are ground and conserved to season dishes, much like sumac.

SUMAC

Sumac, extracted from the fruit of the Sumac tree, is one of the oldest spices present in our country. It is often added to the seasoning of fattoush and to spice up meat fillings. Sumac has a peculiar tanginess to it and is a main ingredient of the zaatar mix.

SOUR POMEGRANAT­E

Pomegranat­e is a well-known fruit of the Mediterran­ean region; yet the sour pomegranat­e variety is never used in Europe. During fall in Lebanon, sour pomegranat­e is widely sought after to produce sour pomegranat­e concentrat­e, which is added to the dressing of our signature fattoush and tabbouleh salads. Sour pomegranat­e seeds are also used to decorate mezze and, along with onions and nuts, make a vegetarian stuffing for many kebbeh dishes.

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